Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

how hard is it to rewire the MAF circuit?

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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 03:34 AM
  #1  
screaminformula's Avatar
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From: Montgomery, AL...for now
Car: 1987 F150...PAAARTY FOUL!
Engine: 300 I6 stump pullin sumbiscuit
Transmission: 4 speed grind box
Axle/Gears: 3.55 unlimited slip differential
how hard is it to rewire the MAF circuit?

i have an '87 Formula with MAF trouble codes all the time and i know it is in the wiring. i have replaced the MAF itself and the power and burnoff relay. while replacing both relays, i noticed wires with no insulation on about 3" of their length and look like they could possibly have been burnt. i can come up with the wiring harness off a junk car, but how hard is it to rewire this?
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 07:36 AM
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Danno's Avatar
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From: Warrington, PA USA
Car: "02 z-28
Engine: LS-1
Transmission: 4L60E
You might consider just replacing the connectors. In my area Pep Boys stocks all the popular connectors for the various senders and relays. If you wind up doing this remember to use uninsulated butt connectors and then after crimping solder them. A couple of layers of heat shrink will make a nice job especially if you use new split conduit. Heck of a lot easier than a harness.
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Old Jul 14, 2002 | 03:18 PM
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Originally posted by Danno
If you wind up doing this remember to use uninsulated butt connectors and then after crimping solder them. A couple of layers of heat shrink will make a nice job especially if you use new split conduit. Heck of a lot easier than a harness.
they make a nice insulated butt connector where the insulation is a heatshrink material and coated with a heat activated glue on the inside.
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 07:31 AM
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Danno's Avatar
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From: Warrington, PA USA
Car: "02 z-28
Engine: LS-1
Transmission: 4L60E
Morley, I am always reluctant to crimp only anything that's under the hood. Reason being is that most people do not use a good quality crimper, or the incorrect size for the butt application. The garden variety at most auto parts stores are junk. A decent pair of Thomas&Betts will set you back 40-50 bucks. Soldering the connection ensures a good low resistance connection. After soldering I use a thin coat of dieelectric grease, a 3-4 inch piece of heat shrink and then a longer piece over that. Just my 2C but I like the insurance.
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 07:33 AM
  #5  
screaminformula's Avatar
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From: Montgomery, AL...for now
Car: 1987 F150...PAAARTY FOUL!
Engine: 300 I6 stump pullin sumbiscuit
Transmission: 4 speed grind box
Axle/Gears: 3.55 unlimited slip differential
im going to try to find all the connectors today, as mine are pretty fu(ked up. will probably buy a soldering kit too, if it don't set me back too much, and some dielectric grease too.

thanks for posting!
Josh
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Old Jul 15, 2002 | 10:45 AM
  #6  
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Originally posted by screaminformula
im going to try to find all the connectors today, as mine are pretty fu(ked up. will probably buy a soldering kit too, if it don't set me back too much, and some dielectric grease too.

thanks for posting!
Josh
Pepboys sells the MAF connector with about 6 inches of wire attatched for $24 or so, and a solidering kit will run about $20.
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