I already have the vats codes and used the potentiometer method. NONE of the codes works. Thus, I think the problem may lie elsewhere in the VATS circuit. What to do next--replace the VATS relay/module with the resistance in the key that I have? It should work then right?

Here's my deal: I bought the car wrecked from a dealer...he ordered keys from GM, but never could get it running, so he thought the dealership had sent him the wrong key.

It's not in the ign cylinder, as the resistance is kosher up to the connector I tested it at (in "on" and "crank" modes). All the fuses are okay. It has to be the VATs or ECM then right? FYI security light stays on any time the ign is in the "on" position.

PLEASE HELP ME...

Sorry for begging...

 

The VATS module is behind the dash in the center - you must remove the dash & pull the entire dash back to get to it - it's difficult to get to - for good reason.

Tim