removing the old harness
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,541
Likes: 2
Car: 1991 Corvette Coupe
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/4L60 same trans different name
removing the old harness
well, i began removing the old harness a while ago
my setup is going to be very simple
non-CC 305, altenator, power steering, thats about it
now the stuff i want to retain working is:
all the gauges
the blow motor
fan
all the lights, etc
what should my engine compartment wiring schematic look like?
it should be very simple
i'm trying to figure this out, because i would like to rewire the engine compartment
and oh yeah, the carb has an electric choke
the previous owner had the fan wired that its constantly on
is there any type of thermo operated control i can buy to tell it when to come on?
i know this is kinda a weird question, but
my setup is going to be very simple
non-CC 305, altenator, power steering, thats about it
now the stuff i want to retain working is:
all the gauges
the blow motor
fan
all the lights, etc
what should my engine compartment wiring schematic look like?
it should be very simple
i'm trying to figure this out, because i would like to rewire the engine compartment
and oh yeah, the carb has an electric choke
the previous owner had the fan wired that its constantly on
is there any type of thermo operated control i can buy to tell it when to come on?
i know this is kinda a weird question, but
While I can't, and won't spell it out and hold your hand through the whole thing; I can say that what you should do is consider each accessory that you want to keep and figure out how it should be wired by itself. Then go through each piece one at a time, figure out the physical layout of the wires, then bundle them up into what becomes your wiring harness.
That is simply a fan circuit that is interrupted by a thermostatically operated switch. Usually and ideally, you'd want the switch to ground a relay that activates the fan, rather than run 12V through the switch itself to the fan.
Fuel gauge:
-sender wire (0-90 ohm signal to fuel level gauge)
-voltage
-ground
Tach:
-tach lead (white or sometimes green wire at the coil)
Speedometer:
-4000ppm electric signal normally recieved from the ECM would have to come from a conversion box (like Dakota Digital's) of some sort
Oil pressure gauge:
-brown wire from the three wire connector on your oil pressure switch/sender mounted right above your oil filter
-the other two wires would be related to powering your fuel pump if you were to keep your electric fuel pump
Voltage gauge:
-any 12V switched source (ideally your battery, but the gauges fuse is where it's wired from the factory; usually .5-1 volt lower than the battery voltage due to all the junk being run off of it).
Coolant Temperature Gauge:
-comes from the coolant temperature sender mounted on the driver's side head between #1 and #3 spark plugs.
Blower motor:
-a hot wire for FULL, and going through the resistor pack for the lower speeds.
Lights:
-you'd have to either:
-a- wire them independantly
-b- segregate the circuits you're looking to keep from the circuits you're looking to ditch. unfortunately in 91 all the wires are bunched together into one big harness rather than a seperate chassis harness and a seperate engine harness. Of course, you never mentioned which car you're working on..
It's not going to be that simple, but if you look at one circuit at a time, it's hardly thought provoking. It just gets daunting when you look at everything at once (believe me, I know).
is there any type of thermo operated control i can buy to tell it when to come on?
now the stuff i want to retain working is: all the gauges
-sender wire (0-90 ohm signal to fuel level gauge)
-voltage
-ground
Tach:
-tach lead (white or sometimes green wire at the coil)
Speedometer:
-4000ppm electric signal normally recieved from the ECM would have to come from a conversion box (like Dakota Digital's) of some sort
Oil pressure gauge:
-brown wire from the three wire connector on your oil pressure switch/sender mounted right above your oil filter
-the other two wires would be related to powering your fuel pump if you were to keep your electric fuel pump
Voltage gauge:
-any 12V switched source (ideally your battery, but the gauges fuse is where it's wired from the factory; usually .5-1 volt lower than the battery voltage due to all the junk being run off of it).
Coolant Temperature Gauge:
-comes from the coolant temperature sender mounted on the driver's side head between #1 and #3 spark plugs.
Blower motor:
-a hot wire for FULL, and going through the resistor pack for the lower speeds.
Lights:
-you'd have to either:
-a- wire them independantly
-b- segregate the circuits you're looking to keep from the circuits you're looking to ditch. unfortunately in 91 all the wires are bunched together into one big harness rather than a seperate chassis harness and a seperate engine harness. Of course, you never mentioned which car you're working on..

what should my engine compartment wiring schematic look like? it should be very simple
Last edited by Jza; Jul 30, 2002 at 10:42 PM.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,541
Likes: 2
Car: 1991 Corvette Coupe
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/4L60 same trans different name
thanx Jza, that helped me out alot!
that was sort of my original idea........think about what circuits i wanted to keep and go from there..........
when i get home tonite, i'll play with it some more..............
after that i'll report back
thanx so much!!!!!!!!!!
that was sort of my original idea........think about what circuits i wanted to keep and go from there..........
when i get home tonite, i'll play with it some more..............
after that i'll report back
thanx so much!!!!!!!!!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




