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i recently started to rebuild my 86 z28, 305 carbureted 700r4. probably 5 years ago i had an lt1 in but now i am going back to a carbureted 350 with a stock 700r4. i cant remember what i did soo very long ago that i have to undo. i removed the portion of harness that snakes through the passenger front fender and into the kick panel. What does this harness contain? also i have a tpi fuel pump in the tank and am planning to run a regulator, unless anyone see an issue with that.( the motor i am using is a vortec from a 96 silverado and the block wasn't machined for a mechanical pump). i am also curious what peoples opinion is of running a factory style distributor with whatever computerization there is or going straight HEI with no computer. also i have no idea where my trans connector is from my harness. i guess i should have double checked before asking but where does that normally come from? i dont know what mods i mae to the main engine bay harness from where it connects to the firewall next to the booster. any help here is appreciated!
I think no one has answered because your questions are all over the place. No need to worry about the harness going through the passenger fender, as the ECM wont be able to control a 350....its set-up for the original 305. I think in your case it would not be cost effective to go any other route than listed below:
1. Get yourself a mechanical / vacuum advance HEI distributer for a 350 SBC ($50)
2. If you plan on using the vortec heads (and you should) then you will need a vortec intake set up for a CARB ($200)
3. Grab a rebuilt straight from the factory Nice and Shiny Holley 600. Holley has their own ebay store. Best deal going for 189.00 with free delivery and a warranty.
4. Make SURE you get the geometry correcting bracket for the 700r4 TV cable and also the mounting bracket for the TV cable. If you dont you WILL burn up the tranny. Holley part# 20-121 (geometry corrector) Holley part# 20-95 (Tv cable mounting bracket) You will need these as the stock brackets will NOT work. $40 bucks worth of brackets.
5. Enjoy your 60's style hot rodded ride...Stock vortec engine in tip top shape that has a carb tuned just right and a good set of headers will outrun any stock iroc ever made.
I doubt you made any mods to the bulk connector by the brake booster. It will contain windsheild wipers, washer fluid switch, headlights, etc, etc
If your planning on adding AC back to the car after all this .....ask someone else. Im still trying to figure that out myself! lol
thanks a lot for the info, some useful notes in there for me. I know my post was all over the place, imagine what its like in my head lol. as for a/c its a non a/c car so that isnt an issue. a couple of concerns i still have, do i need the original computer in the car at all, if yes what does it do. and also i am not sure where the 4 pin connector for the 700r4 trans went to so i need to figure out why that isn't there.
The route I laid out completely bypasses the computer. It's the simplest method and the most cost effective. So, no you wont need the computer any longer if you do this. It wont be controlling anything. It's pretty expensive to buy all the factory sensors, AIR smog setup, recalibrate your existing computer to run a 350 (or find one from a later model year that actually had a 350) amongst numerous other things when you can just bypass all of that and build it like I mentioned above.
A few things to keep in mind however before going this route....Make sure you dont have emissions testing in your area. The car will never pass simply because there will be no computer for their diagnostics to detect. Your car should have a mechanical cable driven speedometer. So that will work. Your fuel level gauge will also work. Not sure about your oil, water, and volt gauges. Mine were idiot lights which I did not like. The simplest method if they do not work is to get a set of bosch MINI mechanical gauges. Available at Advance Auto Parts for a mere $30 They are 1.5 inches and fit into your gauge bezel with no modifications to the bezel itself. You will have to bore out the cluster housing a little for them to sit deeper in there but thats easy enough with a paddle drill bit. Heres a pic of mine... I painted my other gauge needles to match the bosch gauges and presto...
4 pin connector for tranny was for torque converter lock-up. The computer used to control that, so no need for it now unless you put the entire car back stock. You have options however. The first one being not to worry about it at all until your build is complete. It does not hurt the transmission to not have lock-up. All lock-up does is engage when your cruising near interstate speeds. After 4th gear has engaged and a certain speed is met, lock-up occurs and your RPMs will drop just a little to allow the tranny fluid to cool better. If you dont plan on taking long road trips out of state or something i wouldnt worry about it. OR you can do like I did and buy an aftermarket lock-up kit for $50. Its an easy hook-up, but a messy one as you have to pull the transmission pan. I havent installed mine yet, and I dont plan to either. The tranny shop quoted me $100 to do it and Im going to let them!...lol It is easy however. Lots of aftermarket lock-up kits on e-bay. Just dont do the expensive monster transmission one. unnecessary money if you ask me.
appreciate the input again don. putting my mind at ease. so long as i didnt hack something important in the main harness or screw that main bulkhead up somehow she should be driving in a week or so
08-23-2015, 08:31 PM
. i removed the portion of harness that snakes through the passenger front fender and into the kick panel. What does this harness contain?
also i have a tpi fuel pump in the tank and am planning to run a regulator, unless anyone see an issue with that
.( the motor i am using is a vortec from a 96 silverado and the block wasn't machined for a mechanical pump). i am also curious what peoples opinion is of running a factory style distributor with whatever computerization there is or going straight HEI with no computer. also i have no idea where my trans connector is from my harness. i guess i should have double checked before asking but where does that normally come from? i dont know what mods i mae to the main engine bay harness from where it connects to the firewall next to the booster. any help here is appreciated!
