Fuse blowing, hopeing to fix my self
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: oswego New York
Fuse blowing, hopeing to fix my self
Hello new to the boards hopeing i can get some help for my 91 Rs.
Fuse for my dome light and hatch keeps poping. will maby last for a half hour before it goes, also my damm horn dont work this have anything to do with the fuse???
Thanx for the help in advance.
Fuse for my dome light and hatch keeps poping. will maby last for a half hour before it goes, also my damm horn dont work this have anything to do with the fuse???
Thanx for the help in advance.
Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
From: Warrenton, VA U.S.A.
Welcome.
I too have a 1991 Camaro (Z28).
The "ACC" fuse protects the following items. It is 20 amperes, so ensure that you're replacing it with the same value.
1. Map lights.
2. Dome light.
3. Hatch release relay.
4. Convenience center horn relay.
5. Delco Bose amplifier relay.
6. Cigar lighter.
7. Outside mirror switch.
8. Left door lock switch.
9. Right door lock switch.
My guess would be to check the cigarette lighter and be sure that nothing is inside the socket that is conducting electricity. Remove the heating element. You could even remove the wire connected to the rear of the cigarette lighter socket (you'll have to remove the instrument panel front (black) cover to do this).
Since the fuse does not blow immediately, my guess is that the lighter element is depressed ("on"), causing it to heat up, but does not release when it gets to temperature, and thus draw too much current, opening the fuse.
If it is not this, then:
Instead of blowing fuses to test it, I would check the current draw at the fuse (or battery). You should see a little current (~60mA) that the ECM draws with the key out.
If you don't have an ammeter, just disconnect the positive cable to the battery. Reattaching it may produce a very small spark, barely visible (indicating something is drawing a little current [e.g. the ECM], which is normal). What you want to check for is a large spark which will indicate something drawing over an ampere or two.
With the positive cable removed, put in a good 20 ampere fuse in the "ACC" position. Now, touch the positive cable to the battery positive post an see if it produces a larger spark than it did with the 20 ampere ACC fuse removed. Do not keep it attached or it'll blow the fuse again.
If it did produce a bigger spark, disconnect everything listed above (1-9). Now connect one thing at a time and check for the size spark produced when attaching the positive cable to the battery. Each time you reconnect something and touch the positive cable to the battery, the size spark (or "current draw") should not change.
Be sure that the dome light is removed or the doors closed to keep the light off so you don't think that it is drawing additional current.
I too have a 1991 Camaro (Z28).
The "ACC" fuse protects the following items. It is 20 amperes, so ensure that you're replacing it with the same value.
1. Map lights.
2. Dome light.
3. Hatch release relay.
4. Convenience center horn relay.
5. Delco Bose amplifier relay.
6. Cigar lighter.
7. Outside mirror switch.
8. Left door lock switch.
9. Right door lock switch.
My guess would be to check the cigarette lighter and be sure that nothing is inside the socket that is conducting electricity. Remove the heating element. You could even remove the wire connected to the rear of the cigarette lighter socket (you'll have to remove the instrument panel front (black) cover to do this).
Since the fuse does not blow immediately, my guess is that the lighter element is depressed ("on"), causing it to heat up, but does not release when it gets to temperature, and thus draw too much current, opening the fuse.
If it is not this, then:
Instead of blowing fuses to test it, I would check the current draw at the fuse (or battery). You should see a little current (~60mA) that the ECM draws with the key out.
If you don't have an ammeter, just disconnect the positive cable to the battery. Reattaching it may produce a very small spark, barely visible (indicating something is drawing a little current [e.g. the ECM], which is normal). What you want to check for is a large spark which will indicate something drawing over an ampere or two.
With the positive cable removed, put in a good 20 ampere fuse in the "ACC" position. Now, touch the positive cable to the battery positive post an see if it produces a larger spark than it did with the 20 ampere ACC fuse removed. Do not keep it attached or it'll blow the fuse again.
If it did produce a bigger spark, disconnect everything listed above (1-9). Now connect one thing at a time and check for the size spark produced when attaching the positive cable to the battery. Each time you reconnect something and touch the positive cable to the battery, the size spark (or "current draw") should not change.
Be sure that the dome light is removed or the doors closed to keep the light off so you don't think that it is drawing additional current.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: oswego New York
well not sure if that did it but i made it to the video store and back. i got to thinkin and the last time i monkeyed with the fuse was the same day i bought my CD player, since i installed it i havent messed with the fuse,, could the stock radio/tape deck been my problem,.
anyway thanx alot for the info seems like i got it =)
anyway thanx alot for the info seems like i got it =)
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
From: macomb Il
stuart is totally correct, it should be your lighter, i went for like 6 months with this problem, i didnt have the time to check it out to fix and i didnt know much about electrical then, but then i posted the problem, and someone told me about the lighter, and i pulled the lighter out, put in a new FUSE and then i had all of my stuff back, it was my lighter, it would automatically blow my fuse so i just left them out.
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Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Bright Red Hardtop/ Grey "Custom" Interior
NOT STOCK, NO WHERE CLOSE!
NEW RED PAINT and WELD PROSTARS.
DAILY DRIVER: 1991 GREY S10 2.5L/5SPD -FOR SALE. leaving for army.
------------------
Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Bright Red Hardtop/ Grey "Custom" Interior
NOT STOCK, NO WHERE CLOSE!
NEW RED PAINT and WELD PROSTARS.
DAILY DRIVER: 1991 GREY S10 2.5L/5SPD -FOR SALE. leaving for army.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: San Ramon
Thanks guys, the topic wasnt for me but i was looken at everything and found this thread. I did what you said this morning and it is still working tonight. I will check it tomorrow and hope it is still working. Thanks a bunch you saved me a couple bills cause now i dont have to take it to the shop to get it fixed!!
Member
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 303
Likes: 1
From: rockford,il,usa
my 84 z kept blowing that fuse.it pissed me off cuz my radio would krap out when it blew.turns out my car had the dk6 roof console,and the map light was shorting out and blowing the fuse.hope this helps
mike
mike
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, Az, USA
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: T5
That's kind of what happens in my 92 RS. The fuse goes out at least once a month. And when I tried to stick something other than my radar detector in the cigarette socket it burn the fuse. And I tried to get one of those dual outlet adaptors to work so I could plug in my radar detector and my cell phone charger and it blows the fuse every time. Could this be kind of the same problem? How did you fix your problem? Do I need a higher watt fuse? Thanks if you can help.
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V6 Bone Stock
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V6 Bone Stock
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