I've got a 1990 T/A that I drive in the UK. We don't call them VATS but immobilisers, and my mechanic wants to bypass it because the car won't start yet there is a spark and the fuel pump is working. I've read similar problems to mine and it sounds like it is the immobiliser because there is no injection pulse; one of the things the VATS controls. Will the service manual from GM at WWW.Helm.com give me what I need or can someone tell me how to bypass the system. It's been baking hot in England recentley and I can't get out!!

 

The VATS is the PASS KEY? If so I'm having the same problem right now! I tried bypassing it but the computer senses it and shuts the car off after 10seconds. If you figure something out email me at hawaiiguy__@excite.com I'm going to work on my car on Wed and hopefully I'll finally solve it. I'll let you know!

 

vats=vehicle antitheft system.
i dont know where "it" is so i dunno if this will help much, but i have a prom from a vette (88) that i used in my 87 camaro ....this is when vettes had it and camaros did not. and the chip i have has a tag on it that says "vats removed" so idunno if it has anything to do with the computer prom or not.
but....i have also heard that there is just a resistor inline in the column down closer to firewall. and the chip in the key has the same resisance as the one inline. might find out more by going to a stereo install place and ask them. i know when they put a remote start in a car, they have to disable the vats deal (you know ..no key in car but car is running without the chipped key) and they could if they are nice, tell you where approximatly and the color of the wire to find the resistor.

hope this help you alittle

[This message has been edited by 87tpi420 (edited July 16, 2001).]

 

How to bypass it?

There are several ways, which one to use depends on the source of the problem. If the ignition key and/or cyliner is getting worn out, measure the resistance of the key and get a resistor of the proper value, which you connect to the two tiny yellow wires under the ignition cylinder. If the problem is a shot VATS module, you have to get a new PROM for the ECM with VATS disabled, and also bypass the starter enable relay....

Which one is the case here?

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ZaphodB a.k.a Carl Andersson - zaphodb@faxancruisers.org
'89 Camaro IROC-Z 5.7L TPI - Mods under construction :-)
Custom ARAP Chip Under Development/180 t-stat, Edelbrock TES Headers,
SLP Airfoil, K&N Filters, Accel 8mm wires, Relocated MAT, AFPR @ 45 PSI

 

there is a fuse for the VATS,under or near the turning signal thing. you know that round sliver looking thing that makes the clicking sound when you turn the signal switch. ok,the VATS fuse is not really easy to get to,but look around there.First take the entire plastic cover that cover the wires and such under the drivers side dash. there towards the right you will see a black box. and near by there is the signal thing. Remove the black box and when removed flip it down and you will see the VATs fuse...check it out.sorry for my lack of description.

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It is not how you stand by your car,but how you race it.

 

Yeah, try what Zaphod said....I'll put it in detail and you can give it to your mechanic.

Take the ignition key and an ohmmeter...test the resistance on the pellet inside the ignition key. Record the resistance in ohms.

There are only 15 different possible resistor pellets, and a 10% error will still allow the system to work. Go to an electronics store and buy a resistor of the same value you measured at the key. (Hint: you can combine multiple resistors, whether in series or parallel, to get the exact value you need.)

Remove the hush panel under the driver's dash.

Find what looks like a thin white or thin orange wire. It's actually insulation with two wires inside, but it looks like one wire...follow it to the spot where thre's a plug, and unplug it.

Take your resistor, and insert each end of the resistor into either end of the "car" side of the plug. Now, the whole key-cylinder part of the VATS system has been bypassed...and that's usually the spot where trouble is most likely.

Try starting the car. If it still doesn't work, either (A) you used the wrong resistor, (B) the problem is elsewhere in the VATS system, or (C) there s some other mechanical problem with the car.

Also, remember that if you introduce the "wrong" resistance to the system and try to start the car, it won't work for another 4 minutes, even if the right resistor is used.

If all this works, you can elect to solder the resistor permanently in place, eliminating the security of your special key, or have the steering column/key cylinder repaired.