Aftermarket Lights:460Watts:Problems
Aftermarket Lights:460Watts:Problems
i got some nice aftermarked lights and when the high beams are on it SHOULD push out 460watts, (130x2 100x2). i noticed that all this current running through my wires flips my circuit breaker, i got instructions on how to rewire my entire headlight system, but wouldnt i be able to put in a higher amp circuit breaker somewhere?
The stock (factory) wiring was designed as an entire unit. That means that the wire, fuse/fuisble-link/circuit breaker and connectors (headlamp connectors in this case) were all designed to handle the current for a stock headlamp.
Unless a circuit was "over-designed" (using heaver duty components than necessary), which is not the case here, you cannot safely just add a bigger circuit breaker because the wire will be too small (thin). Passing more current through too small a wire will not only increase the voltage drop, but will also heat up the wire more. Going to the extreme, too hot and the insulation will melt. This is how car fires start.
Not only will the entire wiring have to be the proper size (including the ground wires), but also the connectors themselves will have to be capable of handling the required current.
If you're using lamps that draw significantly more than the stock lamps, I'd re-wire all the wires to the new lamps, controlled by relays. I'd also obtain suitable connectors for the lamps.
Re-wiring would be easy (for me). Getting high current connectors I think would be difficult. I've never seen them sold separately. Probably a "speciality" item. I would just use 1/4" push on connectors soldered on to 14/12 gauge wire as appropriate.
[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited August 05, 2001).]
Unless a circuit was "over-designed" (using heaver duty components than necessary), which is not the case here, you cannot safely just add a bigger circuit breaker because the wire will be too small (thin). Passing more current through too small a wire will not only increase the voltage drop, but will also heat up the wire more. Going to the extreme, too hot and the insulation will melt. This is how car fires start.
Not only will the entire wiring have to be the proper size (including the ground wires), but also the connectors themselves will have to be capable of handling the required current.
If you're using lamps that draw significantly more than the stock lamps, I'd re-wire all the wires to the new lamps, controlled by relays. I'd also obtain suitable connectors for the lamps.
Re-wiring would be easy (for me). Getting high current connectors I think would be difficult. I've never seen them sold separately. Probably a "speciality" item. I would just use 1/4" push on connectors soldered on to 14/12 gauge wire as appropriate.
[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited August 05, 2001).]
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 2
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '92 Z28; Dk Teal; Her Pkg
Engine: 305
Transmission: Richmond 6 Spd
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", Detroit Locker, 3.70
You will not need to remove the light switch. Get three 30 ampere 12 volt relays from Radio Shack. Connect the coils of two of the relays to the high beam circuit (light green wire) and ground. Connect each of the two relay input contacts to a separate 30 ampere fuse, coming from the positive terminal of the battery. Connect each of the two relay output terminals to a pair of high beam bulbs. Do the same with the other relay for the low beam bulbs & use the low beam circuit (tan wire) to drive the relay coil. If you have factory fog lights, you will have to cut the green wire (high beam circuit) going to the fog light relay, and then ground the green wire going to the relay, or the high beams will remain on once they are turned on.
------------------
Tim
1992 Z28, 305 TPI 5 speed, 12.1 sec @ 114.7 mph
1984 Berlinetta 305 TPI Auto, 13.8 sec @ 99.7 mph
------------------
Tim
1992 Z28, 305 TPI 5 speed, 12.1 sec @ 114.7 mph
1984 Berlinetta 305 TPI Auto, 13.8 sec @ 99.7 mph





