Alright, what do I do to shut up that damn buzzer, I can't clean my car with the radio on or key in the igintion without hearing it. I can't stop and sit in the DQ parking lot without BUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ. Its driving me nuts I want to kill it and smash it into lots of pieces. Please tell me hwo and where that lil bastard is. SOMEONE!!

Thanx

 

If you want to remove the buzzer itself, it is located in the convenience center, which is above the driver's right knee. You need to swing it down, and it will be a big black box. Just unplug it.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 5151 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

 

I suggest you use a 10 lb sledge hammer on it

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1984 Firebird - Daily driver, 305 LG4, T5 - Hurst short shifter, Edelbrock 600 CFM Performer Carb - Edelbrock Pro-Flow air filter, gutted cat, IROC 16x8 Wheels, Goodyear P215/60/R16, AIWA bargain basement (from Sears of course) CD player
Check out my ride here

Quote from my sister: "It sounds like a boat"

 

The black box he's talking about is in the the middle, there are two smaller ones, one on each side. You can just cut a wire in the box if you don't want to have this black box on your hands.

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Ludicrous Speed GO!!!

Hey, everyone come to the Vicksburg Old Car Show (in Michigan) next year, and hold it up for all the thirdgeners out there.
e-mail me for directions, dates, etc.

 

Ok, I read this somewhere else in this board, and I know it worked in my car. If you unplug the actual box with the buzzer in it, it has male connectors that go into the harness. If you take a test light you can probe the harness and figure out which prong goes to what function. There is one for door open with keys in ignition, one for lights on door open etc. When you figure out which prong goes to which alarm all you have to do is bend the prong that goes to that sensor and all the other alarms will still function. For example, I bent the prong that caused a buzz when my keys were in the ignition and the door was open, but if I leave my lights on it still buzzes. When you look at the buzzer you can see it's designed for this and even has recesses for folded prongs in it. By doing it this way, you can always bend the prong straight again anytime if you want/need to. Hope this helps.

 

I don't know if this will work on anyone else's car but on mine if I turn the switch to ACC. then VERY carefully turn it back towards OFF I can remove the key before it cuts off the ACC. power, and the radio will play without the key in it, but it sometimes takes 2 or 3 trys to get it to work.
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92 Camaro RS 5.0 5-Speed (Quasar Blue)
T-Tops
14" Open Air Cleaner
3.08 Posi-trac
Edelbrock TBI Intake
Crane cam
Ported & polished stock heads 3 angle valve job
HyperTech Chip
UltraFlo cat-back exhaust

74 Dodge Dart Sport 360 (11.2 1/4 mile)

2000 Dodge 1500 Ram Sport

[This message has been edited by DartByU (edited August 10, 2001).]

 

What i usually do, and it's worked on other older GM vehicles is turn it back to ACC, then VERY slightly wiggle/pull the key out of the slot, just enough to make the buzzer stop. Works every time.

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1990 Pontiac Formula 350
Rebuilt 355
COMPCAMS 212/212 .440/.440 cam
Flowmasters 80 series.

 

Exactly, or wear out your key really bad, then you don't even have to wiggle....

Works great.



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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

 

all i do is just pull out the key a little and it stops buzzing

 

i can't pull mine out

 

I used to be able to pull out on my key and the buzzer would stop, but then I replaced my worn out key cylinder and the buzzer worked correctly and drove me nuts until used the solution I mentioned above. This is like a five minute fix and works great. The hardest part is figuring out which tab is for what alarm. It's no big deal, so if you want to get rid of the buzzer just get a test light and take care of it.