Some wires in the engine bay of my car are hacked up. I think some go to the starter. Its right around where the MAF burnoff and fuel pump relays are (Rear drivers side corner of bay). I have a problem which is related to this. Somtimes while accelerating (heavier than usual) the check engine light will pop on while the car kinda cuts out. The light usually flashes only when the car acts up and then disappears. Somtimes it will stay on, but as soon as i shut the car off and restart it its gone. The car returns to normal when the light goes off. All this mayhem takes only a second or two. The only info I have is that when I dump the codes it gives me a 33 to blame the MAF. Can those hacked up wires be the cause of is my MAF really dead?

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"Though I cruise through the valley of Rice I shall fear no turbo, for torque art with me."
--Cullan Hooley
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1985 IROC-Z w/T-tops, 305 out and 350 L98 TPI engine in, Hooker Super Comp Headers, 3" Hooker Super Comp Cat-Back, 3" CatCo Cat, Rebuilt TH700R4 with Shift kit, 2,800RPM Torque Converter, 3.73 Richmond gears, Auburn differential, Accell SuperCoil, Accell 8mm racing wires, BBK AFPR, Homemade Ram-Air (thanks to Andris Skulte), MAF screens removed, Dropped A/C, Dropped A.I.R, TB coolant bypass, Hurst Dual-Gate Shifter, SLP Air Foil, K&N filters, Holley performance fuel pump, Spohn Subframe Connectors, Re-located Spohn Lower Control arms, and more to come.

 

I know electrical problems are a bitch to diagnose but does anyone have any ideas? Something like this happen to anyone?

 

I have heard where the MAF sensor is intermittent, and could maybe cause an issue under hard acceleration. While the car is iding, tap on the MAF sensor, and see if the car stumbles. If it does, it's possible that the filament inside is broken, otherwise, i would say take a closer look at the 'cut' wires in the harness. If someone repaired them, but didn't do a good job, you could also have a bad solder joint of crimp that would cause problems. The best solution is new crimps/solder joints and some good heat shrink insulation.....

 

I already did the tapping. I guess I'm going to have to start re-doing some wires.

 

Your MAF is probably fine. Code 33 pops up a lot for non-maf reasons. I have a wiring problem too. I may end up paying a (competent) mech to track it dowm.

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88 GTA 5.7 TPI Charcoal Grey Bone Stock except for loose muffler which makes it a bit louder than normal.