my blower motor quit working. it didnt make any noise before it went but it did only work on the high setting before it stopped working. i've heard that blower motors will squeel or whine if they go bad, is that correct? and is it a real pain to replace blower motors?

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former 305 crossfire fuel injection
350 cubes
hooker headers
750 vac secondary
700r4 with shift kit
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"no man with a good car needs to be justified."

 

I had to replace my blower motor not too long ago. Turns out a mouse of some sort made a nice little home in there and clogged everything up... it made a loud vibrating noise when it was turned on, but that was probably because he stole my sound dampening material and stuffed it in the cage fan.

As for replacing, it isnt really that hard, you just gotta get to a few hard-to-reach bolts. Took me about one and a half hours. One suggestion: when you go to put the new motor on, make sure you put some RTV on the seal. I think there was a factory seal on there but it broke apart when I took the old motor off.

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1986 Camaro IROC-Z
Code 23 Paint ("IROC Blue")
305 TPI
B&M Megashifter
Grant GT Steering Wheel
New A/C Motor!

View my website, a work-in-progress

 

Before you replace your blower motor you should do some testing as the symptoms you described indicate to me that your problem may be elsewhere.

You said that only hi speed had been working for a while. There is only one winding in the motor, so the lower speed problem has to be elsewhere. This would indicate a bad blower resistor assy. or blower speed selector switch, as power for the lower speeds go thru the selector switch, then thru the resistor assy. before going to the motor.

As for hi speed, power for it goes thru the selector switch then to a relay if you have A/C, then to the motor, or straight to the motor if no A/C.

The resistor assy. and relay are mounted near the blower motor. To test, you'll need a voltmeter or testlight. You can do the testing at the resistor assy.. Test for 12v on these wires with the indicated speed selected:
lo - yellow
m1 - tan (only if A/C equipped)
m2 - lt. blue
hi - purple (only if A/C equipped)
hi - orange (if no A/C)

No power on yellow, tan, blue, or orange would indicate a bad selector switch.

The purple (or orange) wire should be hot in all positions but the voltage will be lower for all but hi. If no power in lo, m1, or m2, the resistor assy is bad.

Check the orange, purple, and red wires on the relay (if A/C). They should be hot when hi selected. Red should be hot at all times. If no power on orange, the selector switch is bad. No power on red would indicate a blown fusable link, but you would have other problems as well. No power on purple, but others hot, would indicate a bad hi speed relay.

 

thanks for posting guys.

i have printed out your instructions IROC&ROLL, its an A/C equipped car and i have a test light so im gonna check it out today.

thanks

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former 305 crossfire fuel injection
350 cubes
hooker headers
750 vac secondary
700r4 with shift kit
--------------------
"no man with a good car needs to be justified."

 

well i went out and checked it. i found a plug with all the wires except a red one. i have power on all the wires at the plug on all fan settings, but when i put it on the high setting, this little black box in front and underneath the plug buzzes whenever i hit any of the wires im supposed to test with the test light. i have a picture i scanned from the haynes manual and id post it if i knew how but it has wires running out the bottom of it and they go to the blower motor, i am assuming that these are the positive and negative blower motor wires since those are the only wires i see running to it. if a picture is needed for you to help email me and ill email them to you.

thanks

------------------
former 305 crossfire fuel injection
350 cubes
hooker headers
750 vac secondary
700r4 with shift kit
--------------------
"no man with a good car needs to be justified."