How do they work? Can i just tap into the wires near the switch? I know they are not pulsed. There are 3 wires, which ones control the unlock and lock? Does the switch reverse the polarity of the power going to the locks? For those who have done this can you tell me exactly how to do it.. will i need just 1 relay to do this or 2?

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!

 

They are pulsed, but you just need to pulse two different wires. Light Blue for lock, and black for unlock. The wires also run near the drivers kickpanel, at the top of it. So you dont have to tap them right at the switch. If your alarm outputs 12V on the lock/unlock wires, you dont need a relay.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 5151 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

[This message has been edited by Omar (edited November 22, 2001).]

 

Oh, they are pulsed... thanks Omar. I just ran the wires for the remote start relays.. that was NOT fun!!

 

I have the door locks hooked up to the alarm, but its not working. I used the light blue and black wires as said before. I am positive they are the right ons, since i checked them with a DVM. I tried hooked up a direct wire from a 12V source to the wires but they still don't work. What is going on? I have an 89 bird w/ a Hornet alarm.

 

on my viper, it had a section where i plugged the locks into it, and i just spliced into the power and negative of the locks...

 

Thats what i did, but for some reason its not working.

 

Just came across this while searching the archives. I'm putting an alarm in my 87 Trans Am. The power door locks and the power rear hatch release are the only things giving me some problems. From my voltmeter readings, both of those accessories take 12V to operate. My alarm only outputs a low voltage 550mA signal though. Not near strong enough to lock/unlock the doors or to pop the rear hatch. So, I figure I need to pick up a relay for each feature. Anybody know what kind of amperage ratings I'll need. Also, it doesn't really look easy to find relays that such a low voltage, low amperage signal will trip. Thanks for any help.

 

I figured out the door lock problem. There is more than 1 light blue wire in the car.. imagine that!! I think i might have fried the up and down movement of the passenger side power mirror though

My alarm came with an extra relay for the hatch so i used that. The door lock wires had a built in relay also. I did have to buy one for the VATS though. I just used the standard radio shack 12V relay that comes with a socket. Actually, they sell an automotive one that would be perfect for the door lock issue you have. It has a on/off terminal, 12V constant, ground and output.
The relay has a nominal current rating of 160mA so you will be fine. Here is the part number.. 275-226

You can't use the standard "automotive" relay from RS for the hatch though. It requires a negative input. Just us the clear relay with the socket like mentioned before. All you have to do is hook the output of the alarm to the coil and have a constant + to the other side. Run a wire from a ground to the normaly open side (doesn't matter which side of the relay) and the wire from the hatch switch to the gate of the relay. Once you see the actual relay you will know exactly what i am talking about since you can see the inards.

If you have any questions email me or repost, i will be on here later on.

What alarm did you get? I picked up the Hornet 553T for $90 and am happy with it. Wiring it was not fun... i got much satisfaction when i was done though. The local shop around me quoted me $400 for the same alarm installed. All i need to do is get rid of the stupid doors lock when ignition is on crap. I hate that!!

 

Thanks for the help. That's pretty much exactly what I was looking for. I'll probably be headed out to Radio Shack in a little while to pick up the relays. If only I didn't have to lose my excellent parking spot here at school... I just read about the neutral start switch problem (i think that was you). Sorry I can't help out much with that, but it sounds like you have it under control. My install doesn't involve anything around the shifter. Oh yeah, the alarm I'm installing is nothing fancy, just a Black Widow that I got as a gift for my birthday. But, along with the kill switch I put in after my car got stolen and recovered, this should be a pretty good deterrent. Good luck with your install. Hope I can return the favor sometime.

 

Mike, Your welcome, people help me on here, so its only fair that i help others. I have been a little bit of a post ***** with this install though.

The NSS is all taken care of. I am waiting for the glue to dry so i can put the cover back on the console. It should have cured by now, but it has been cold enough to extend the curing time.

Stolen and recovered... not nice. I hope they didn't do too much damage.

 

Omega, if you wire it correctly, you can use a standard SPDT relay for pretty much everything. It's actually excellent for giving something 12V when your alarm outputs (-) on the wire, or vice versa.

On a further note, I changed the wiring of the stock hatch relay, and my switch now completes 12V to open the hatch. I then wired a SPDT relay in conjuction with the starter kill wire, which outputs ground when armed. Result? When I arm my alarm, it kills my hatch release switch. I just hope it discourages someone and doesnt encourage them to break my hatch window. But those are the chances we take, right?

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 5151 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System