ok I was about of a 1/3 of the way to Mizzou from St. Louis driving back cause classes start the next week and when I brake to slow down a bit I try to accelerate back up again and it doesn't shift gears smoothy, instead it clunks into third then goes for what seems to be neutral for a while, then gets knocked back into second and refusing to shift out, all this occuring with a serivce engine soon light. I pull off the highway, shut it down and start it back up again and the damned thing refuses to shift past second gear! I pulled a 22, 36, and 44 error code, the 22 I've had since I owned the car because I've always had a somewhat erratic idle every now and then, didn't think too much of it cause when I drove it, it ran fine and caused no problems. the 36 was a MAF error, kinda odd, but when I took it out to replace it I found it had been gutted (by the previous owner, didn't tell me this at all), but it never caused any trouble until now. I suspect that 44 is caused by the formers, all the codes are registering as hard codes, not intermitent. Anyways I replaced the MAF (which set me back $150) and I am still experiencing the same damned problem! I know they say you have to clear the error codes, but unfortunately I didn't pick up how to do this, it could be responsible for the new MAF not responding. Also a fuse could be the problem, but I found out that when I got home (30 minutes away from where my car currently resides). I plan on checking that tomorrow, but if that's not the problem, what is? How do I clear the error codes, and could this be a problem with my torque converter or shift linkage? I really hope it's not a tranny problem cause that would be a major bitch as far as time and expenses go.

 

I hate to tell ya, but it sounds like a tranny problem to me. I had an 85 chevy impalla do that once and it turned out to be the tranny.
Post this on the tranny board, they may be able to give you a little more insight as to whats going on.
As for clearing the codes, the easiest way is to just disconnect the battery for a while I think an hour should do it, and this will clear the codes.
I may be wrong, you may not have to disconnect it that long, so if anyone else knows how long, please chime in.

 

5 minutes of no power should clear the codes. (in fact, i think it's more like 30 seconds). some cars have an ECM fuse under the dash, you can pull that instead of the battery so your radio, etc dont get reset, and no tools are involved

 

Code 22... TPS voltage low.. adjust the TPS voltage to o.54v ±o.o8v .
Code 44... Lean exhaust condition.. should be fixed with TPS adjustment.
Code 36... MAF burn-off (Bosch MAF only) problem. Replace the burn-off relay and see what happens.

Clearing the codes.. disconnect the battery for about 15-30 seconds or remove the fuse in the weatherpack holder right off the +terminal of the battery.

 

where is the burn-off relay? I replaced the whole MAF, that should've solved the relay problem too, or is this another thing I am missing?

 

the maf burn-off relay is mounted on the firewall between the power brake booster and the fender, there will probably be two or three relays in a row, I am not sure which is which, you can trace the wires back to the maf and go from there. most of the time the relay is the cause of maf problems.