Yeah, that's how I have mine wired. I stick in the key, turn it to RUN and hit the button.

It was described earlier in this thread.

There are two specific wires (amongst a few others) running to a long flat white connector on the top side of your steering column. Those two wires when connected operate your starter (i forget what colors they are, you'll need to find this out). What I did when I wired mine was cut those two wires and hook them to a relay. The push button was then also wired to the relay to switch it on. So when you push the button it flips the relay and kicks the starter. Fairly easy and only took a few minutes.

 

is there any way i can wire it up to where i dont have to turn the key at all. b/c my wheel lock is giving me troubles. i would guess there would be a way to wire up a switch that you flip to on and then hit the button to fire it up, but im not very familiar with electrical stuff

 

Well like I said before you'll probably have top pull out the lock cylinder completely or figure out what locks the wheel in place when the key is off. (I assume the lock cylinder does that). If that's the case then you'll need a switch for the "Run" position. Just need to figure out which wires do what and wire switches too them. I think it'd just be easier to swap lock cylinders though. (and safer)

 

iansane, is it important to use a relay with this rather than just wiring the actual switch to those two wires? i dont know how much current is going to flow through these wires.

for mine, 86 camaro, the wires are red and yellow, the yellow goes to the starter solenoid.

 

I don't know that honestly. I don't know how much currant goes through those wires. I'd think it wouldn't be much but I just did it anyways.

 

I think some of you guys are over thinking this. I installed one in my car last summer because it's nice to be able to start the car from the front when I'm screwing with the timing or trying to tune the carb. if it dies, i don't need to go back around to the driver's seat. it's nice. I also hid it so you can't even se it unless you know it's there. I used a 60 amp starter button i got from pep boys, and they sell it pretty much everywhere, in case i need another one some time. it works great for me. as far as in the cockpit, i don't see the point. it doesn't make it harder to steal. if someone wants your car, they can break the column, pull the wires, and start it that way. or jam a screwdriver in the lock and twist. now, if you want to go through all that to move it, hide it, and make the lock useless for starting, go ahead, but that's a lot of work for not so much return. but who knows. what i did was used my MSD 6AL and wired a kill switch according to the instructions. can't start it unless you know how.

 

OK...I like the pushbutton starter idea, I really do. I'd love to do it.

But...

If you still hafta put the key in to unlock the steering column, what's the point? You still hafta turn the key to unlock the steering column, turn it a little farther and the car starts.

Maybe the steering wheel lock could be rigged to a solenoid, to be triggered when you flip the toggle to enable the ignition, unlocking the steering column? For the paranoid, a hidden switch could be used to unlock it instead.

 

The wires in my column wouldn't do shat. You could cross them for as long as you want. Hell, you could apply your own 12v source and it still wouldn't start the car. The wires were chopped at the bottom of a column and moved to a relay in kick panel that's switched with the button.

:shrug:

 

the best way to keep the sterring wheel unlocked is to remove the parts that lock it. you are going to need to get a steering wheel puller. there is a round plate that has alot of slots in it where the pin goes through to lock the wheel. you will get the idea once you start digging into the column. it really isn't that hard and ALOT easier than trying to setup some sort of solenoid to unlock the wheel. one good thing for having to still use a key to unlock the car is if you are warming up your car and its cold out side,it wouldn't be as easy to steal the car as to just simply jump in and drive away.

 

What holds the key IN the ignition? Mine won't turn without the key in, but I can pull the key in and out at will, once it is started. Nice for checking my mail! I can run in to mail room, check my mail, yet never hafta kill my engine.

 

my friend had a vat key and it didnt match the computer so he putnin a push button the key is used just to unlock the wheel and put power to th button its a pretty good idea

 

I did it where the fog light switch would normally go on a stock camaro. Mainly so I could start the car without depressing the clutch while standing outside of the car.

I wired it directly from the starter solenoid though. All stock wiring is retained, and you still need the VATS key to get it started. You can bump the starter all day, but it won't fire until the key is in RUN and it reads the resistor. I wouldn't know anything about a steering wheel lock interfering though....... My car is a 5-speed so it doesn't have one.

If I had an automatic and I wanted a starter switch I would pull the lock assembly out of the column and take the key out of the loop completely by wiring a starter AND a kill switch. The starter switch would have to be accompanied by an RFID reader (they're pretty cheap now-a-days) and a hidden fuel pump switch.

 

i didn't realize this thread was old... stupid "popular topic" link.................

 

It may be an old thread, but a good topic.

I'm planning to do this for my '88 Formula very soon. I have an old disabling system that I bought years ago, but never installed into anything. It's an electrical plug that has a harness of heavy wires that you splice into existing systems-- starter, fuel injection, ignition, etc. Then it has an electronic "key" that is plugged in, to make the proper connections to close the circuits. A thief can't very well cross all the circuits correctly without blowing fuses.

Anyway, I plan to install this key system and the starter button in the rear of the console cover, so they hide under the front of the console box cover. I'll also add a rocker switch to switch between "run" and "accessory," so I can use the accessories without having it in "run."

In the steering column, I'll remove the key cylinder and the column lock mechanism, so the column won't lock. A thief can break that in about 10 seconds anyway. Then I'll cut, close, smooth, and paint the column cover where the key cylinder was, making it smooth in appearance.

At first glance, a thief will notice right way that there's no key cylinder to punch out in the steering column. Then if he looks, he may find the pushbutton, but without the electronic "key" he won't get anywhere.

To start the car, open the console, insert the "key," and push the button. Close the console.
To stop the engine, pull out the "key."

To me, it's not so much the coolness factor as security. I don't care if the button is red and says "Start Engine."

I'm working to set up the car so I can park it with the windows down on a hot sunny day. Nothing in sight to steal, no break-in to steal stuff. Windows down, thief won't break the glass to get in. No key cylinder to punch out, no damage to steering column. Difficult to hot-wire without blowing fuses. Of course, a real pro who wants it will just use a tow truck and work on it elsewhere. Mainly just stop the joy riders and stereo theives. (My stereo is an OEM Delco tape unit with equalizer (from a '91 TA), which almost no one will steal any more. For good music I have a personal portable XM unit. I built the XM's cradle into the ash tray opening. Take out the XM and close the ashtray lid.)

I have no idea where to find this type of disabling thingy any more. I think I bought it back in the 70's.

One day soon I'll get this done, and post pics.

 

I'm building a somewhat Knight Rider Replica (hiss / moan), not doing it "screen accurate - thus the Notchback) Since I have a 91 & a 5 speed, Kitt used 82-84 automatic console, I designed and a member here CNC'd / Powdercoated this plate for me that goes between the stick shift and the console lid...

Everything here lights up (thought off now)...
The big top left red button turns ignition on and DEI Keypad.
Punch in the right code, then use big top right button to start engine...
Punch in wrong code I wired the Eject Left without the roof opening

White rockers are windows, other red / green are everything else, horn, disco ball, yada, yada, yada....

 

does anybody know or have the wiring schematics for the key switch on an f-body trans am. I took the engine harness and everything out of a totalled 91 T/A and want to put the ignition on a rocker style and push button set-up and i just need the wiring diagram. Any help would be appreiciated.

 

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/

Look for vehicle wiring diagrams up near the top left of that page.

Now....
I've got a pretty much D.O.A. ignition cylinder. No key, tumblers busted, and you have to turn it to the start position and then really twist the **** out of it, to engage the starter. Well, last night it tried to leave me stranded in the circuit city parking lot. So now I'm looking into alternative fixes. Not for the sake of being cheap, but more on the innovative side.
I can easily get a new cylinder and key, and go that route (VATS already bypassed) but I'm really liking the idea of the RFID tag and reader.

Looking at this kit
http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store...t.aspx?a=ag734
has me thinking.

It would not be very hard at all to make this work.
Reader goes somewhere near (within 4 inches) of where you can place your carried RF tag. For my application I'm thinking underneath the center console, directly underneath the front left corner of the box, so it can read a tag that I would either leave on my keys in my pocket, or read it after I toss the keys in the center console.

The reader in that link above has a +5 volt output, so the remaining step would be to wire in a relay off of that +5 and connect it to the ignition wire. (the one that normally gets +12 when the key hits the "ON" position.)

All that is left is to set up a push button for starting.

Now comes time for reasons this would not be a good idea.
First thing that comes to my mind is, if the tag and reader move to far apart, be it due to sliding around in the console, or if I end up moving around in my seat just enough to move the tag out of range of the reader, it is going to turn off the ignition. Not exactly a good thing when you're rounding that corner enjoying a little aggressive driving.

Second thought is this:
Generally those readers and tags are meant to be passed by one another, make a transmission, and the end result will be activated. Now, I would be wanting to have mine turn on and stay on, and I expect this would have a serious impact on battery life for the RF tag. Any opinions on this?

What about the accessory position? Toggle switches aren't really something I want to even consider for this. The point being to minimize the amount you have to touch, turn, push, prod, or beat on, to get the desired results.

Lastly, the kit in that link up there is a starter kit, with some extra bells and whistles. You can buy, just a reader (and writer if you choose) and a tag, and pull all this off for around $50 to $75. Figuring in the relay, push button, and other parts. Not too bad considering a stock replacement will cost me about half that, and has none of the "wow" factor. I mean really, how cool would it be to just jump in the car, ignition comes on all by itself, and with the push of a button you're on your way.

I'm open to any suggestions or opinions.

 

A card reader by the gas pedal, and you slip the tag in your shoe when you get dressed?

Pu the reader in your car seat, tag in your pocket?

A 4" range seems to be the biggest hurdle. A longer range reader perhaps?

 

When looking through the individual parts of the kit, I saw 2 antennae, perhaps that would be the solution.
This is one of them: http://www.trossenrobotics.com/ib-te...d-antenna.aspx
but the range is between 10 and 15 centimeters, still too low.

And I'm still thinking about the ACC position, how will I activate just the Accessories, but not have the full "ON" either.

Steering lock? I'm not removing it, everything will still appear and work as OEM.

This may turn out to not be worth the time to do it.

 

CENTIMETERS? Sure about that? That's like under 1/4" away...

 

Maybe you should check your conversion charts... 10-15 centimeters is ~4-6 inches.

You thinking of millimeters? Although even that's a little under a half inch.

 

Somebody me!

The sockets came to mind.........

 

has anyone try the push start panel that autozone has ? is it any good or just a joke

 

It's a joke. I guess if you wanted to add a little rice to your f-body.

If your looking for a Push Button that looks good the Honda S2000 has a red starter button with "Engine Start" with a chrome bezel.

Part Number:
35881-S2A-911

attached is a picture

 

IF YOU WANT A AWSOME PUSH BUTTON START KIT FOR YOUR CAR LOOK ON WATSONS STREET WORKS UDER WIRING ACCESSORIES. THIS IS THE BEST PUSH BUTTON ON THE MARKET IT CAMES WITH THE RELATS THAT MAKE IT WHERE THIS BUTTON WILL TURN ON AND TURN OFF YOUR CAR AND WARK THE SWITCH ITEMS IN YOUR CAR. ALSO THE BUTTON HAS A BLUE HALO RING AROUND THE BUTTON THAT LIGHTS WHEN YOU HAVE THE IGNITION ON. CHECK IT OUT IT IS GREAT. THE SITE ALSO HAS ALOT OF OTHER GREAT PRODUCTS THAT YOU CAN CUSTOMIZE YOUR CAR.

 

Your still using the key though... doesn't that defeat the purpose of a push button start setup ? You turn the key one more time and the car starts, so what use would the button serve ?

 

you still have to use your key to unlock your steering column.

 

Anybody come up with any solutions... I know its an old thread but I been viewing this for some time now...

 

You will have to remove thus disable the entire key / latch / steering lock mechanism... unless some kind of actuator (door lock?) can be used in place of it...

Also, if you have a VAT's equipped car, you will need a reprogrammed chip or proper resistor to fool the computer...

Raf

 

I am going to take out the steering column lock part and put in the resistor to disable the VATS. I am then going to hook up a two position switch, or if I can find one, a switch where I push down and it switches on and then I can push down again for a momentary switch.

To put it more clearly, push and it acts as a switch, push further and it acts like a button and when pressure is let go, returns to the first position with the switch still "on". That would be my acc and ign switch.

That would then be grounded and the positive would go to a switching relay wich would be controlled by the rfid door unlock thing that I have. A switching relay would be used so it stays on even after the doors lock and then stays off when I walk away and the doors unlock.

I would then put a relay somewhere along the line that would keep the acc circuit closed once the engine is running so that I can walk away without the engine turning off.

That's my solution. You can still use the key, but the only two security measures are disabled. Not acceptable for some, but fine with me.

 

can someone explain how to get the crank signal with my push button i ran the wire off the push button thru firewall and connected to heavy purple solinoid wire. worked fine but on cold start had to crank **** out of it. if i just connect to the heavy gauge yellow wire from ignition switch and connect that to the wire from starter button will that give the ecm the crank signal its looking for. I have the manual and it shows the wire diagram for ignition switch that the Ign#1 terminal on the switch is connected at the crank postion as well as during run position which I know is the heavy gauge pink wire under dash seemed to me if this pink wire was connected to the heavy yellow wire to get signal direct that it would still be sending power to the solinoid with key in run position and thus still have solinoid engaged while motor started and harm the starter and flexplate. I know the manual says the pink wire is unfused and crank controlled but i wasnt sure what that meant. so basically I got wire that triggers the solnoid from push starter button but dont which wire to connect or wires to connect it to so that car starts good cold as well as hot. one thing i tried was to run a jumper from the heavy gauge pink wire to the wire red hot wire powering the push button starter button which worked i got the crank signal and motor fired up quick on cold start but when i went to turn key off to shut down motor it continued to run until i disconnected my pink wire jumper from the power wire on the button. I using the red lighted button pep boys sells although i got from summit racing. it is a starter button that incorporates the need relays all into one button package so i dont believe i should need to add additional relays to make this work correctly. like i said before my first attempt at hooking all this up worked fine except for the first start on the day when was dead cold had to crank long long time to start

 

coming back to that RFID tag reader, the one from trossen is a passive one, which doesn't have a battery and that's why it has such a crappy range. the kit i bought to unlock my doors is active and has a pretty far range as long as there isn't any metal blocking it. i got the kit off ebay for $40 or $50. it's called K-9 Sombra and has outrageously cheesy packaging, but it worked quite well. it's also an alarm system, but i didn't hook that part up.

the battery life for the RFID dongle is pretty good, i've had the kit for almost a year and haven't had to replace the battery yet. it sends a short signal out once every second or so, which keeps battery usage low. it also has an accelerometer in it and if there hasn't been any movement for 10 minutes, it stops sending out the signal, which also saves battery life. the receiver box has an extra output for anything you want to run, like a switching relay that would keep the acc on and wouldn't cut power to the car while driving it. or you could use one of the outputs for the door locks. neither of those would actually work because it's too risky to be reliant on the dongle (it could be motionless for 10 minutes, or the signal could just get interrupted), but you get the idea.

in order to have a set place where the dongle would work, all you would have to do is shape a metal container to block out the radio waves except in the direction you want. like only pointing up, so you throw your keys with dongle in the console and it would only be able to read it in that position.

 

Subscribing.

 

Awesome set up... I'm thinking about the KITT look for my T/A as well... just not wanting alot of Darth Vader's Bathroom Gadjets... Just a few extra bells and buttons in this case...

 

If i get a camaro this summer like im saving for economy and all the way it is, this is what i plan on doing.

#1 Vats will be bypass permanently with appropriate resistor if equipped.

#2 Steering lock will be permanently disabled inside the column.

#3 Key cylinder will be left intact to confuse would be criminals.

#4 Key cylinder will do nothing electrically.

#5 Toggle switches will control the Pink Ignition 1, Orange accessory 1, and a Momentary toggle will control the starter. Ala nascar style. On a car this old pre-89 and maybe even up to 92, only powering the ignition and starter until the engine is running, should have no adverse effects. Once the engine is running i can toggle the Accessory orange wire.

#6 An alarm keyless entry, remote start will be installed as well, and will simply power the same wires, and a starter kill relay will protect the car from starting while the alarm is active even with the toggle switches.

The ignition switch wires generally draw around 40-50 amps, so a 60 amp relay will be plenty to drive each circuit via a low current switch.

#7 Since i am going for a nascar theme with the perspective car, i will also implement a removable steering wheel. If they cant hot wire, or steer it they wont bother taking it


Sounds complicated, but basically the drive off procedure would be carry out the steering wheel, unlock the doors (also disarming the alarm), get in, click the steering wheel into place. Flip the ignition switch, hold the start switch untill it fires. Flip the accessory switch to turn on the radio/heater, and drive off

For remote start sequence it would be
Remote start from inside the house. The start output from the remote start is going to the car side of the cut start wire relay. At this point it is still protected from the door pin entry sensors, and brake switch that kills it. Plus having no steering wheel. So, carry out the steering wheel, unlock the doors (also disarming the alarm), get in, click the steering wheel into place. Flip the ignition switch, and the accessory switch to keep the radio/heater on. (already powered by remote starter) Press brake to end remote start sequence, since the ignition and accessories are on by the switch now, the engine should stay running, and drive off

 

Hmm i just thought about this some more. You could use another relay to hook a second toggle switch to run the accessory wire.

Turn both toggles on, use signal from the momentary to interupt the accessory toggle signal so basically turn 2 toggles on, hold starter which automatically drops the accessory out and as soon as start is released accessory comes back on.

 

Alright took my feeble mind a while to draw this out in any form others could understand it You COULD eliminate the accessory toggle with another diode off the ignition toggle and interupt that input to the accessory relay. BTW i do remote starts for a living. Can ya tell? I would reccomend running a new battery feed to the relays. This may be too much to run off the existing 12v wiring in the harness.

 

so the red ones are the wife is talking to much or the dumb friend ejection seats

 

At $130+shipping, its kind of a lot, but this is probably the coolest switch I've seen for a pushbutton starter.

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/w...cessories.html

Scroll down to the third block on the page, PN #L75B/G/R.

 

hmmm some good idea's in this tread

 

This would be simple fits in the cig lighter hole

http://www.stylintrucks.com/alerts/p...491&imagenum=0

 

I'll get a picture of my pushbutton starter.

Its fly.

 

It's off topic but my turn signals don't work anymore can somebody help

 

with that high speed KITT panel, you could use the "telephone" keypad to enter an unlock code to the ignition, like in the movie The Transporter. That combined with a push button start would be pretty nice.

 

I posted up my idea (which has now been successfully installed in 2 vehicles) in different thread.

It utilizes rfid, similar to factory pushbutton start vehicles.

Post your unique kill switch

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ique-kill.html

post #15 is more short narrative

 

some security ideas to help keep car from being stolen

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/battery.html

 

*subscribing* great information here...

 

Something I thought about that I believe has been mentioned is using some sort of keyless entry system. I have wireless relays (4) that are controlled by one key fob. One of those can activate the ignition (as if you were putting the key in the "on" position) and ready to turn the vehicle on when entering. I would also run a hidden switch possibly under the seat, so if the wireless-controlled relay were to fail, flip the switch and continue...or you can use the dial pad as a secondary ignition switch. Also the aux output on a regular aftermarke alarm system can be used aswell.

Also the internal mechanics of the steering column would be removed or replaced/modified so the key isn't necessary.

If I ever get a secondary car to experiment, I'll definitely do this...

 

Any new ideas?

 

I dunno if I told you guys about my project, but here is the link to the build thread https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ter-build.html