...absolutely nothing!!!

In short, I have been having issues with VATS (car started intermittently, security light would come on and stay on). In trying to trouble shoot the problem, here is what I have checked.

1) key chip resistance

2) Wires coming from Ignition lock cylinder resistance (matched the key)

I think there was another spot that I checked and again got the same resistance value as both the key and the ingnition lock cylinder wires.

I decided to purchase a new start enable relay (only $13). While I was waiting for that to arrive I have been working on the other issue that involves the code 33/36 I have gotten. While trouble shooting those issues, I would have to start the car up occassionally. I would start reliably.

Now that I finally got the new relay from the dealer and replaced it, the car wouldn't start (the fuel pump wouldn't even prime! - it would before). I am wondering if there is anything else I may have to do because I changed the start enable relay?!?!?!

 

Sounds like you may have a broken wire or bad ground somewhere in the wiring you disturbed either in troubleshooting or in the enable relay wiring.

 

Check the key resistance in the cyl at the plug on the column when trying to move the key from stop to start. Sometimes the wires break and or the contacts and get intermittent.

 

OOops; I had forgotten to plug in the fuel pump relay (hence no sound when key is turned to "on" position).


BUT, I put in the OLD start enable relay back in and the car turned on. Just to be sure I put the NEW relay in a 2nd time and got nothing. Then I put the OLD relay back in (a 3rd time!! ) just to be sure and of course, the car started right up. I am not sure what the hell is going on. Like I said above, I have checked the key resistance and the resistance of the two wires coming from the ignition lock cylinder (followed Tricksters recommendations) and those numbers matched up. Is there anything I am missing in replacing the start enable relay?

 

Wrong relay?

 

Doubt it. I got the replacement from the dealer and the part numbers on the new relay match the part numbers on the old relay. I will probably tinker with it some more tonight. If I get the same outcome I guess I will just take it to the and get a new relay. After all of this trouble, I certainly hope this cures my intermittent starting problem. Funny thing is, now the old relay is working better than the new one.

 

There is no guarantee that the new part is good. Morley is right, if you unplug the old unit and the new one does not work it is simply bad or there is an intermittent worse than some of ones I have seen in the TG's. Unfortunately GM is outsourceing to China for older parts just like the aftermarket.