Hatch Motor Problems
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
I suspect that the either the reversing switch of the lift rod isn't installed correctly. I'll cover the reversing switch first. There is a molded tab on the switch that must fit into a slot in the clear plastic housing and is held in place with a phillips head screw. Also check that or the switch button is between the tabs on the lift rod that flip that switch. When the hatch pull-down unit reaches the bottom of the cycle the switch is flipped down. Another thing to look at is that the lif rod was installed correctly. There is a round portion of it that rides in a slot of the clear plastic housing. It is possible to install it 180 degrees from the correct orientation. If that happens the metal tabs on the lift rod won't trip the switch.
Did the motor run and lower when you plugged it in? Did the motor get hot? This would tell me that the reversing switch didn't get tripped when the lift rod reached the bottom of the cycle. It only stopped because the motor stalled out (hence the motor getting hot). If this isn;t corrected you'll QUICKLY fry your new motor. I've also had a reversing switch that bent over the contact clips when I installed it onto the contact terminals on the motor. In that case the motor wouldn't run at all. I didn't find the bent terminal clips until I removed the switch.
The striker-sensing switch can also cause the same symptoms, but since you didn't have to remove that switch to install a new motor I'd suspect the reversing switch first. Take a look at the Tech Article I wrote to repair it. If it turns out you need any more parts to repair it, click on the TDS logo at the top of the page.
Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
Did the motor run and lower when you plugged it in? Did the motor get hot? This would tell me that the reversing switch didn't get tripped when the lift rod reached the bottom of the cycle. It only stopped because the motor stalled out (hence the motor getting hot). If this isn;t corrected you'll QUICKLY fry your new motor. I've also had a reversing switch that bent over the contact clips when I installed it onto the contact terminals on the motor. In that case the motor wouldn't run at all. I didn't find the bent terminal clips until I removed the switch.
The striker-sensing switch can also cause the same symptoms, but since you didn't have to remove that switch to install a new motor I'd suspect the reversing switch first. Take a look at the Tech Article I wrote to repair it. If it turns out you need any more parts to repair it, click on the TDS logo at the top of the page.
Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Fl
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 ci V8
Transmission: Auto
thanks
talk about service! Thanks alot, with that article i should be able to do it right. gonna start over tommorrow, can't think anymore tonight. I think the problem
is that the gear nuts teeth suck. will be ordering all new.
is that the gear nuts teeth suck. will be ordering all new.
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