cedric85745

I just open the trunck today and as i m lifting I hear the motor goign nuts and not stoping the hatch release did unlock but the damnnn thing is not moving up,
I took the plastic cover off and disconnected the two cables on each side, replug it and still I hear the motor going.
A guy told me to just buy the whole new thing again which is 250 at hawk web site
I was wondering if it wasnt just the little gear
?
what do you think?
is it easy to change
please help meeeeeee

thanks a lot, glad the forum is back

Cedric

cedric85745

com on , a litlle help ??

HalfInchWrench

I would find the right height and drill a few holes and anchor it down. It works and takes a little efford finding the exact right slam force. Once you mastered that then you are a rear hatch expert. Report back on your findings so folks can further comment or learn something from it.

HalfInchWrench

Before hand I meant disable the motor and anchor it fast to the tracks.

cedric85745

i m not sure what you mean, the motor when plug keep on turning not moving anything, I just thaught it was the gear that was eaten out....

right now the hatch is close, I had to push really hard on it , so I guess you mean I should re adjust the release but how since its stuck,

I need to mention that I m retarded with my hands

thanks

Jim Berry

Your plastic main gear has finally stripped out.

If you disassemble the unit you will see that the "gear" is flat on one side. I have a few pristine ones available if you need one after the disassemble.

Jim.

HalfInchWrench

Remove the electrical leads from the hatch pull down.
Adjust it so it is fuly closed. Crawl into the hatch with a sarpee or some other marking device. Mark the rail where you would like it to be permanant.


Open the hatch and reach in and drill holes where you marked. Elongate them so you have some adjustment. Once adjusted tighen her down. Problem solved.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Were you aware that I sell all the parts you'll need to repair it?

Yes, it sounds as if your gear nut is bad. The motor continuing to run without the latch portion moving is the classic symptom of a bad gear nut. I can see jerry rigging it if you aren't aware of the parts being available.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

88Jasper350

Today, my electric hatch release went out, it will shut, just part of the way, you can't hear the motor, it's not doing anything, I can open it with the key, and with the push button on the console, but when I shut it, it latches like a slam-down would, and isn't even with the spoiler, and leaks when I wash it. I'll include a couple pictures of it. (Yay for a girlfriend with a digital!) I've looked for the "switch" that everyone talks about, I cannot find it. Tried slamming it down harder like some others said- also, nothing happens. Please help?

305q_ta86

iTrader: (1)

Slam it REALLY hard.

I had to do that once when I needed into the car I was storing. No battery.

88Jasper350

Tried slamming it, very hard. I honestly think if it was slammed any harder, the rear glass would shatter.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

There are two switches involved with the hatch pull-down unit. Get a flash light and a long screwdriver. The striker-sensing switch is a small black switch just in front of the latch as you are facing the hatch pull-down unit as you stand behind the car. Using the screwdriver, fiddle with the striker-sensing switch. The contacts in it are likely worn and it just needs a little persuasion, then it should sense that the hatch striker hook isn't there any more and the latch portion will rise up. If that doesn't work check the fuse panel. The hatch pull-down fuse is a 20 amp fuse in the #11 position (third column from the left, third row down). It also powers the cigarette lighter, PDL's and interior lights. If this hasn't solved the problem take loose the hatch surround trim. There is a red with white stripe wire that plugs into the blue wire. It should be hot (+12v) at all times. Check that the ground is in place below the hatch pull-down unit. If it tests OK, take a look at the Tech article I wrote. Remove the reversing switch which is mounted to the motor. Test the two terminals on the motor with +/-12v.

Or keep slamming it and I'll sell you the parts that you'll break. You're choice.

Lon

88Jasper350

Haha, I'll get on that tomorrow morning. And try and find it, thank you for telling me where it is, I was looking all over for it. is it easier to find with the plastic removed?

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Yes, but it really isn't necesary. Just look down the hole with a flashlight.

Lon

88Jasper350

Lights, cigarette lighter and everything else works, I have nothing better to do. So I'll go try that, and tell you if it works.

88Jasper350

Went out there, with my half dead flashlight (haha) and I only seen one thing that it could be, unless it's further down. Do you have a picture of what it looks like?

omnipotentgoku

iTrader: (1)

Having recently and still dealing with this issue, I did a lot of junk yard shopping. Of the 15-20 pull down units I found, atleast 11 of them had the "stay in one place" modification with screws, or welding etc..

I should note however.. if its just the screw, I just bought on from that Top down solutions for 7.00 . Its that link at the top of the forum. That would be the best place to start in resolving this problem.

88Jasper350

Once you get it in, let me know if it works and I'll be the next to order it.

stage20

iTrader: (3)

rear hatch expert reporting, SIR!
been there, done that. nice post. give me a good late night chuckle.

Jim Berry

Open hatch, leave up.

Place your index finger ( the one next to the thumb) where the loop on the hatch will go when it shuts in the receiver motor groove.

You will feel the plastic switch to the left side of your finger and the hatch motor will now travel "down" to its stop point. Remove your finger and it will now travel "up" again to receive the hatch when you shut it.

Jim.

88Jasper350

Did it, nothing happened, the switch moved, but no motor noises or anything. So I assume either 1, it's not grounded right, or 2, the 12v wire isn't hot. Would I be able to run a new wire to it, and it work the same if that's the case? I will check it tomorrow, along with the ground.