Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

ignition switch prob?

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Old 02-21-2005, 01:12 AM
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Car: 1984 pontiac trans am
Engine: 305
ignition switch prob?

i have an 84 trans am. had a hard time starting it yesterday. when i turned the key nothing happened. the battery gauge was all the way down. finally got it started after turning the key a few times. later that night it did it again, only this time i cant get it to start at all. im kinda desperate at this point cause im afraid im going to be towed. Now when i turn the key on sometimes the battery gauge will go back to normal for a second or 2, but then when i have the key all the way turned on it drops back and i get nothing. also the headlights wont go up. when i turn them on, i just get lights on the instrument panel. also the power windows wont work, the wipers do sometimes but sometimes i just hear a bell sound. the other electrical things seem to all work, inside lights, hatch release, mirror. right now i just need to start it and get it home (2 blocks) could i just bypass the ignition switch and hotwire it somehow? i can get to the wires in the steering column could someone tell me which ones i have to deal with? im sorry if this is too long or hard to understand. blame it on my gender lol

thank u very much
linda
Old 02-21-2005, 02:07 PM
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Car: 1986 Camaro Spt Cp
Engine: 2.8L
Transmission: 5 spd
Linda-

You probably did all this already. Just in case you didn't carefully check everything to do with the battery. Include the ground end of the cable. I've seen corroded\dirty connections cause all kinds of strange stuff. They will sometimes act the way yours is re. starting. They'll work then not work.


I wouldn't start cutting the wiring going to the ignition switch unless you know you have a wiring problem. Better to replace the switch if it turns out to be bad. It's a bit of nuisance. Get a Chilton's or some other decent manual if you have to remove that switch. It's an inexpensive investment. You may also need to become a contortionist to make the switch change if its like my Camaro switch.
Old 02-24-2005, 10:50 PM
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Car: 88 IROC (x2) 85 Z-28
Engine: 350 TPI, 305 TPI, 305 carb
Transmission: 700R4 (x3)
Ted is absolutley right.. corrosion is a killer in the side mount batteries.. I have seen too many times the bolts get tightened a little too much and break the lead seal in the battery causing small amounts of acid to leak to the cable connector at the battery. This causes corrosion to build up inbetween the bolt and the cable where you can't see it until, in most cases, it is too late.

First thing first.. Check the Battery and connections if you are not getting a good ground from the battery you could end up with full power, no power or intermittent power. If the connection is not good it can also keep the batter from getting the charge it needs which will only cause you more problems.
*Good, Clean and Tight* for all electrical connections!!!

Second, as for getting under the wheel.. I have found this very nice in the past when doing work to the columns in my cars. Most of the 3rd gen cars have reclining bucket seats. Recline the back then put your feet over the back and lay your head under the column. Should be alot more comfortable than tryin to twist in from the side.. Just watch that you don't let all the blood rush to your head.. makes for a killer headache!!

third, while you are layin under there check the harness connector to the electical portion of the ignition switch make sure that it has not worked it's way loose. If it has you can get alot of resistance to critical circuits which can cause you problems all through the car.

Last note.. While you are under there, there is a metal rod that runs from inside the column just behind the key switch down to the the electrical portion of the switch. When you turn the key, this rod is forced downward and acutally engages the switch. *much like a light switch* If this rod is even slightly bent out of it's original form it can cause the switch to not engage fully. Also the electrical switch is bolted to the column by 2 small bolts if the bolts have worked loose and the whole switch is moving rather than being activated by the rod, you can have similar problems.

Hope this helps.. Good luck !!

By the way .. this is just me.. but I would rather push the car for the 2 blocks to get it home rather than start cutting and splicing..

Last edited by bluez2885; 02-24-2005 at 10:58 PM.
Old 02-25-2005, 06:29 AM
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Car: 1986 Camaro Spt Cp
Engine: 2.8L
Transmission: 5 spd
I have to try that method for getting under the column. I've been coming at it by either laying over the console upside down or from the outside. At my age it ain't any fun I won't admit to exactly how old other than my first Camaro was a spankin new 69 350SS. Yes, I want it back right now.
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