Hello,

i ve a serious problem.
My car radio, an aftermarket one,
was going off every 3-5 min.
I ve replaced the radio fuse but i doesn't works..

so i decided to connect the + cable
directly to the battery, at the +

i ve tested the radio again,
i thought it will maybe works now fine..

and... it works..
but short after that, its was going off again.

i ve disconnected everything,
and wanted to stop working on the car.

when i put the key in the contact,
and turn it on, nothing happens !!

actually, the car is not cranking, there is no light at the
dashboard, and not even a peep tone before you start the car !

i think the battery is broken of the car.
but all the accesoires are running fine..
i ve tested the AC vent, power windows, locks,
its works all..

i ve checked the fuses box, nothing is stuck.
there are 2 grey big fuses, i cann't check that out.

but WHY O WHY is the car not running ?
nothing happens when i want to start it ???

I ve just only connected the + cable of the car radio DIRECTLY
to the battery at the + , but it was going off.

Can somebody help me or tell me what i should to do ??

I hope that i don't ve damaged the ECM, gauge or whatever..

let me know what you think ASAP

 

I ve tested the fusebox again,

i ve replaced the battery from the other Firebird
but the old battery is still working fine ...

the things which are working are :

- headlight,
- ac vents,
- wiper
- radio
- hazard lights
- power windows,
- power antenna
- power door locks..

its works all fine.

the things which are not working are :

- there is no beep sound, and the car is not cranking/starting ??!!
- no dashboard lives, almost dead ???

i still can't start the engine !

possible solutions :

- replace the ECM ?
- check the fusebox ?
- replace the dashboard ?
- check the starter ?

tell me ???

why ?
is the ECM damaged ? i don't ve one,

Please do reply me ...

 

Closely inspect the fusible links near the battery, near the starter, and at the right rear of the engine compartment (directly above the starter and right head).

It is likely that you'll find an open fusible link or loose connection at the starter.

 

Also check this connector:

 

Vader,

I ve made a picture of my engine
which cables do you mean ?

there are 3 cables, and it looks as a connector.
are there fuses in it or what should i to do ?

 

ANd one more thing,

everything works before this incident.
And Vader, at your picture, you ve 1 red cable,
i ve 2 ???

 

Does it works like this ?

http://www.carcarecouncil.org/Electr...ble_link.shtml

 

read this tooo..
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ele...l#ignitionfeed
well let me know peoples,
what should i do???


==================

Diagnosis
To diagnose a power feed problem, use the list below to narrow down the source of the problem:

No power at all: no power to accessories (headlights, radio, etc) and nothing happens when the ignition is turned on.

No ignition feed: the instrument panel (lights, chimes, etc) does not come on and the engine does not crank, but accessories (headlights, radio, etc) have power.
Starter problem: the engine does not crank, but the accessories (headlights, radio, etc) and instrument panel (lights, chimes, etc) have power.

No engine feed: the engine cranks, but there is no spark, fuel, etc. Accessories and instrument panel work.

No radiator fan feed: the engine runs, but radiator fan and air conditioning do not work

No rear window defroster feed: everything works except the rear window defroster and/or under hood light
If you do not see your exact symptoms here, try the closest one. In order to do ANY of these tests, you really need to have at least a DC voltmeter. A multimeter that can measure DC voltage, current, and resistance is much more useful. If you don't have a multimeter and plan on doing anything automotive, go and get one right now. You can get a cheap analog multimeter (or "multitester") for $10, but I recommend getting a digital one because they are much easier to read quickly and many are auto-ranging (you don't have to select the range and worry about blowing it up). You can get those for around $10 to $20. If you are serious, you can spend $40 - $100 on a good, digital multimeter than can measure high currents with fuse protection, etc

 

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/ele...l#ignitionfeed

 

Yes, that is how they work.

You have at least two and possibly three fusible links near your starter. The connector you detailed in the photo is also suspect. There is likely another fusible link (or more) near the battery.

 

PRoblem found !

Right behind the fusebox,
there are 3 more fuses !

1 one of them burnt...

The other problem is now...
the power doors and the interior lights ..doesn't works anymore

if i use the car alarm :
then the power doors will work !
i ve checked the wires to the button of the power doors,
but it is all oke.

and the interior light, right above your head,
i ve it checked with a electric tool, its not working..
no 12v when the doors are open...

fuses are all checked and replaced !

 

i had a similar problem. I replaced my car CD player, then the car wouldnt crank, but the lights came on, so did the AC and all that stuff. It turns out theres another fuse box underneath the drivers right knee (why they dont put all the fuses in one place is a mystery to me). That means you have to take off the screws that hold the panel underneath the steering wheel. Its basically the bigger piece of plastic that the fuse box cover on the left drivers knee holds on to (hope that makes sense).

Anyhow, take off the screws, lower the plastic shield, and towards the back right, theres a black box with 2 plastic holding springs, push those inwards and lower the black box. There should be a few fuses, VATS (vehicle anti theft system), brakes, and some radio fuse (there were only 2 fuses in place when I looked, just the VATS and the radio one). When I replaced the radio fuse (i think its called ACC for accesory or something, it gives power to the 'memory' or 'constant 12V' wire on the radio wiring harness), i knocked a wire loose that holds onto the VATS fuse. The car will not crank if the VATS fuse is not in or if the VATS wires are not connected well as I found out. I pushed in the VATS wires that go into the fuse tighter and the car started ok (theres also a plastic shield underneath that black box that you may have to pry off in order to access the wires that lead to the underside of the fuse).

I have pictures of this, lemme know if you want me to post them or send them to you. Do lemme know if this helps.

Raul

 

Hey Raul,
i just want to thank you for your help.
everything is working fine now.
actually, there was indeed a problem,
the CTSY fuse was not in the fuse box
how stupid i m ... but i didn't remove the CTSY fuse.
casper, the friendly ghost did it