Anyone using a 'G-Tech' in their 5.7 engine
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From: Santa Rosa, Cali
Car: 1988 IROC 5.7 Money Pit
Engine: (being built; modified TPI ZZ4
Transmission: 2200 stall/ stage 3 700R4
Axle/Gears: freshened 3.27 in 9.bolt/
Anyone using a 'G-Tech' in their 5.7 engine
I hooked up one of those G-Tech accelerometer computers this week to run some base line figures for my recently aquiered 1988 IROC 5.7 Automatic
I wanted to get some baseline testing done before I started doing any tune-up and/or performance work on the drivetrain. This car has been sitting for most of the past two years and runs like a pig. I'm hoping someone out there has run some horsepower figures and 1/4 mile track times with a correctly running 350 motor so I can know what I should be shooting for.
I ran 5 general horsepower acceleration tests with an average Horsepower reading of 156.7 @ approx.4200rpm and a 'best' run of 163.3 hp.
I believe the horsepower rating at the engine is 240 for this year, and have no idea what % loss we have through the drivetrain. (tried to run a search here but came up empty)
This was with the old oil and dirty air filters. I just installed Redline oil in the engine, rear end and flushed the transmission, but havn't rerun the G-Tech yet.
Anyone else with a G plug in computer? Nitro
I wanted to get some baseline testing done before I started doing any tune-up and/or performance work on the drivetrain. This car has been sitting for most of the past two years and runs like a pig. I'm hoping someone out there has run some horsepower figures and 1/4 mile track times with a correctly running 350 motor so I can know what I should be shooting for.
I ran 5 general horsepower acceleration tests with an average Horsepower reading of 156.7 @ approx.4200rpm and a 'best' run of 163.3 hp.
I believe the horsepower rating at the engine is 240 for this year, and have no idea what % loss we have through the drivetrain. (tried to run a search here but came up empty)
This was with the old oil and dirty air filters. I just installed Redline oil in the engine, rear end and flushed the transmission, but havn't rerun the G-Tech yet.
Anyone else with a G plug in computer? Nitro
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From: Long Island, New York
Car: 1988 Firebird Formula
Engine: 388 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
I have one but have not had a chance to fully use it yet... its hard around here to find a spot you can go from dead stop to a 1/4 mile at WOT without getting pulled over. All the rycers took the spots over and attracted the cops. I have a feeling that these meters are fairly accurate. I think though in order for it to be accurate you must do atleast a 1/4 mile. What were your torque readings and 0-60 and 1/4 mile times???
The only time I have is 0-40 in 3.1 sec.
The only time I have is 0-40 in 3.1 sec.
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iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,048
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From: Long Island, New York
Car: 1988 Firebird Formula
Engine: 388 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
I just remembered that the weight of your vehicle is a major factor in determining HP and TQ ratings, I would not trust the factory weight, i have been told this several times. Everyone told me to go to a truck weight station and get it weighed there.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 1
From: Santa Rosa, Cali
Car: 1988 IROC 5.7 Money Pit
Engine: (being built; modified TPI ZZ4
Transmission: 2200 stall/ stage 3 700R4
Axle/Gears: freshened 3.27 in 9.bolt/
RE: G Tech
I've got the Torque map written down somewhere, but havn't found where I set it-
I'll put them in a little notebook so that I can start measuring each step of the fine tuning process. Yes, it's VERY important to have a true weight of you and the vehicle. I'm choosing to do my runs with a full tank of fuel so that I can keep getting consistent accuracy. The local gravel truck scales in my area don't charge a thing for me to just drive up on the scale and read the automated weight reading.
I did my readings with the acceleration method; which is where you hit a certain rpm in a first gear rolling start before flooring the accelerator. That way I didn't have to do a 1/4 mile run and **** off other motorists. My local Sears Point racetrack hasn't opened for it's Wed night season yet which is where I'll go to get the actual 60 foot times. Nitro
I'll put them in a little notebook so that I can start measuring each step of the fine tuning process. Yes, it's VERY important to have a true weight of you and the vehicle. I'm choosing to do my runs with a full tank of fuel so that I can keep getting consistent accuracy. The local gravel truck scales in my area don't charge a thing for me to just drive up on the scale and read the automated weight reading.
I did my readings with the acceleration method; which is where you hit a certain rpm in a first gear rolling start before flooring the accelerator. That way I didn't have to do a 1/4 mile run and **** off other motorists. My local Sears Point racetrack hasn't opened for it's Wed night season yet which is where I'll go to get the actual 60 foot times. Nitro
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