I've searched threads for hours and posted a few times already, and everyone has been a big help. There are still about 3 questions I have I can't seem to find the answer to regarding my VATS dilemma.

1.If I am going to bypass VATS with a resistor, whay does it matter which side of the plug I put the resistor on? Everything says to put it on the opposite side of the plug coming out of the steering column, bu I'm going to have to cut the wires coming out of the lock cylinder anyway to thread them through the column, so couldn't I put the resistor there?(whew!)

2. If I bypass VATS and use the vats key from the new cylinder lock, will that work or will the resistance from the new keymessit up? Do I nee to get a non-VATS key made?

3. If I decide not to bypass vats and replace the module to work with the new key, what needs to be removed to get to it? Just the center console or the entire dash? This could be the determining factor.

Thanks for everyone's help, hopefully when I get this stuff figured out, I'll get to fire up my first F-Body!

 

Which plug? The resistor should connect IN PLACE of the wiring to/from the ignition lock cylinder.

If you eliminate the wiring to/from the lock (by installing a resistor in place of it) the key will do nothing with VATS.

You should be able to access the module from under the left side of the dash.



You may be overlooking option #4 - Install the new lock cylinder, and have a new VATS key cut to that pattern with the correct resistor pellet for the car. The keys are about $7-9 at locksmiths, $30 at a dealership. I can't imagine what a VATS module would cost.

 

Thanks for your help, that diagram is great.

 

the last VATS module i replaced was a few years ago & was $200.00 from the dealer.

 

A new lock cylinder does NOT come with a VATS key - just a dummy key. You can bypass the VATS with a resistor and just get a plain old $2 key made, or you can get the right resistance and get a new $20 VATS key made with no need to bypass the system.