I have searched and couldnt find anything.

I replaced my fuel pump (via the trap door method) a while back and when i did, the guel guage quit. it was right before the 3/4 mark and would move slightly back and forth sometimes. So i thought it was just hung or something. I reopened the trap door, pulled out the whole fuel pump, and the housing where the fuel floater rod connects at was twisted a little. So i twisted it back because it had came out of the tabs that holds it in place. I moved the floater up and down and it was moving freely. I put it back in the tank and peeked in to make sure it was floating. Hooked every thing back up and cranked it but now it reads full. But the funny thing is, if i take it out of the tank where the floater is completely out, it wont go to empty, just to a little less than a quarter of a tank. Any body know whats making it do this? A working fuel guage would be so nice to have. Im afraid it will be the sending unit, if so, i will do without a guage.

 

Replace the sending unit (GO NEW!!)

 

You've lost your mind, thats $300. The car is going soon anyways

 

Any body have any other ideas?
If its not the sending unit I would like to get it fixed

 

I had a similar problem on an Olds Cutlass a few years ago. Gauge was pegged past full. Turned out to be a wire harness connector had loosened up.

 

Ive solved the problem. What happened was that when i took the fuel pump out or was putting it back in, the lock ring rubbed up against the wire to the sending unit where it connects to the top of the gas tank lid and cut it open and since it was on the bottom of the wire I didnt see it until I took the whole thing back out again. So it was grounding itself out making no resistance to the fuel guage, which makes it read full.

A little electrical tape and now it works fine. I went for a drive just to watch the needle move.