Let me start by saying whoever did the engine swap in my car is a GENIUS. The wire to my electric choke is ran through the door jam from the front of the fuse panel. The wires for the aftermarket tach, oil pressure and water temp gauges were ran through the door jam. Ive removed the tach wires going to remove the water temp and oil pressure gauges once I figure out how to get the factory gauges hooked back up. He also had some junk after market fogs ran through the door jam. Seems like a fire waiting to happen to me. There is a pigtail under the dash with about 5 wires coming out all of which are cut. I have no clue what the wires originally ran. My fuel pump is ran to the ignition and the spark is not I guess. When I turn my key off the car will idle till it runs out of fuel. The blower motor for the defroster does not work. Why would it? My hatch pulldown doesnt work. Im sure there is more suprises under the carpet. I should have checked things like the blower motor and hatch when I bought the car. The gauges I planned on removing so that didnt bother me. Should I pull my interior and completely re-wire everything? Any tips on the fuel pump issue? Should I go find out from the previous owner who had the car when the engine was done and kick them in the bean bag??
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the pigtail wires are black orange green blue and white blue and black

 

Just to clarify, are the wire colors:

• Black/Orange;
• Green;
• Blue;
• White/Blue;
• Blue/Black?

If so, connector could have been part of the power door lock relay.

It would help to know what year, model, and options the car is.has. Is this the '88 in your profile, or a different car?

 

88 Iroc-z like my profile says. Power locks still work. I think the "Orange" is really Tan if your looking at a diagram. Ive got a haynes manual but cannot find it in the diagrams. Car has power locks windows hatch
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was originally tbi