What should volt reading be....
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From: Middle GA
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Vortec Headed 383 9.6:1
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt Posi 3.73
What should volt reading be....
across the gauges on the fuse block?
My car seems to have developed a short some where that is drawing power with the car on. Battery still holds a charge fine and alt is putting out. Just when the car is under full electrical load (lights, wipers, fuel pump, fan, gauges, etc.) The car will lose power and die.
The only thing I've noticed since the problem started is that the factory gauges will jump around on me, some times the speedo will peg out and some times the tach will, other times they will just jump around. In the past they haven't moved at all (only guage in cluster that should be getting a reading is the voltmeter).
I'm getting about a 7.5v across the guages, I was expecting it to be 12v but I'm not sure if there is a resistor in that line or not. Just trying to locate the source of my problem, any help is appreciated.
My car seems to have developed a short some where that is drawing power with the car on. Battery still holds a charge fine and alt is putting out. Just when the car is under full electrical load (lights, wipers, fuel pump, fan, gauges, etc.) The car will lose power and die.
The only thing I've noticed since the problem started is that the factory gauges will jump around on me, some times the speedo will peg out and some times the tach will, other times they will just jump around. In the past they haven't moved at all (only guage in cluster that should be getting a reading is the voltmeter).
I'm getting about a 7.5v across the guages, I was expecting it to be 12v but I'm not sure if there is a resistor in that line or not. Just trying to locate the source of my problem, any help is appreciated.
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 128
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From: San Antonio,TX
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 c.u.
Transmission: T-5
i believe it SHOULD be reading 12v. ive had problems with jumpy gauges and the problem was a loose wire somewhere, maybe at the battery or alt.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 294
Likes: 2
From: Middle GA
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Vortec Headed 383 9.6:1
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt Posi 3.73
I only tested it key off and got 0 volts (good)
and key on and got was 7.48 volts (confused)
Connections I can see seem solid, any tips for removing the cluster? Like how to get that pesky headlight switch off! ugh!
and key on and got was 7.48 volts (confused)
Connections I can see seem solid, any tips for removing the cluster? Like how to get that pesky headlight switch off! ugh!
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 294
Likes: 2
From: Middle GA
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Vortec Headed 383 9.6:1
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt Posi 3.73
Well, seems like the draw wasn't really a draw. The breaker I had installed for the high output alt. wasn't letting enough power through. Never threw the breaker though. I should have been more curious when the car was on and I'd get 14volts at the alternator, and still read 12volts on the battery. So the guages appear to be an unrelated issue.
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