Hey everyone who helped out in my last thread

Ive made some progress on tracking down
my fuel pump woes, and Ive concluded that it
cannot be a electrical problem. I took a spare
battery wired up a lead/ground and powered
the pump from underneath the rear end at the
prime connector. The pump didnt flinch..

After cooling off, I double and even triple
checked my wiring repairs and continued to
search for anything else that looked suspicious..
I had 12V all the way back to the car at rear
pump connector .. Relieved for the moment
I had only one idea left..

My decision is to drop the tank this weekend
and replace both the sending unit/pump and
be worry-free.

However, reading my chiltons about the
procedure had my jaw drop.. Is it necessary
to lower the rear axle and remove the coil
springs, etc etc..? Just to remove the tank?

Or is that Chiltons out of it's mind?

 

The Inline fuse looked fine, as did the wires attached.


The wire assembly going uptop of the tank, No luck the
pump did not respond to power..


We checked for power at the rear connector that is faintly
visible and had power, and fed 12V to the 3prong connector
in front, the pump I think is shot.


And finallly the relay connector was cleaned and repaired

All of this points to a bad pump, no?

 

I should also mention the car has had virtually no new gas
since the rebuild, and has been an on-going project spanning
over 11months.. I suspect the gas was varnishy or just low..
Possibly after repeated/multiple starts for tuning and other tests
on the motor, the pump just may have gave out during that time.

and the question at hand:

Is it necessary to lower the rear axle and remove
the coil springs, etc etc.. Just to remove the fuel
tank and access the electric pump??

Thanks for any suggestions, and sorry
for the triple post, haha

 

.... Is it necessary to lower the rear axle and remove
the coil springs, etc etc.. Just to remove the fuel
tank and access the electric pump??

Yes, one of the "messy" jobs is removing the tank. I've done this dozens of times. You'll also have to lower the exhaust too. I can describe the complete process including some hints if you can call me. I'm in Tucson. The process is kind of lengthy and I'm just too lazy to type it all here. PM me and I'll give you my numbers or if you want, I can buzz you.

BTW, your member name and my plate are identical...!!!

 

to reach my fuel pump i just used a air cutter bent up the metel and rewelded it the carpet covers no one will notice but be carfull becouse theeres only 2-3 inches to work with and the wireing gl

 

Hahaha crazy, nice car

Well, I have to purchase the new pump on friday and begin
the job that weekend. Ill PM you at that time if I have any
trouble and questions, Thanks a bunch !!

Like in my earlier thread, My exhaust has not been
completed due to headers, but the flowmaster is still
hung and attached to the car. I can simply cut it away
and weld it later.

I just wasnt looking foward on dropping the rear or
anything of that nature, but its gotta get done.

Thanks for the input

 

Finally.. Friday has arrived!!
All gearheads report to thier respective garages

Just wanted to post-up, Ive begun my teardown
to rip my Intank pump out, replace it with a new
sending unit/pump and finally enjoy my car.

The car is on stands, and the rear axle is
waiting to be dropped... It's ashame I dont
have "deep pockets" so to speak. Since I
have to remove rear springs, and unbolt
shock absorbers.. I woulda loved to replace
bushings and such along with aftermarket gear
But, concentrate on one thing at a time

Ill possibly post pictures of the tank removal
and the condition of the pump and most likely
more questions.

Wille, sending a PM your way

 

The fuel pump is not as bad as it sounds. I've done it three times already (no, not on my car ) and it takes about 4 hours from start to finish. You don't even need to drop the axle if you are willing to wrestle with the tank while pulling it out/putting it back in.

Just follow some common sense on taking things apart and you'll be ok. Exhaust, heat shield, fuel lines, el. connections ... that's all you need to remove.

Lou

Lou

 

Hey BigLou!! just in time for the fun


As you can see, I didnt have to cut my exhaust because the
catalyct converter wasnt welded or connected

Also as BigLou stated, I might not have to hassle with dropping
the rear-axle



As Wille pointed out to me in a PM, If you use a breaker/leverage
bar and stick it down into the filler and bend it as down as far as
you can. This will make removing/installing the tank MUCH easier
than hustling it around tryin to free it up... Thanks Wille





A very knowledgable tip from a very knowledgable guy !!

 

After all the work of removing my tank to service
a faulty fuel pump.. just to find a rectangular hole
cut in my sheetmetal of my trunk!!!

I should have checked in the first place to see if
the previous owner did indeed do that, and he did ..
It was alittle too late after I saw it while dropping my
fuel tank.. At least I learned how to service my pump
CORRECTLY

On the upside, He did a phenomonal job of cutting
the hole, I was pleased about that.. Ill just fab up
a hinged protector door in its place, I will take a
picture of it tommarow morning

Again, all credits to BigbabyLou and Willie for the support!!

 

why is everything mirrored?