I have removed the a/c unit and EGR stuff. All i want in my engine compartment is the wires needed. I have a huge cluster of wires and have no idea where to start hacking. can someone please help?

 

Just follow the wires from the sensor connectors to the EGR and AC back to the fire wall, or to a spot that is not visible, and cut there. Terminate the wire accordingly.

 

That's exactly what i did, the only wires in the bay are spark plug, battery/alternator, dist. and gauges it looks so much better without all that extra trash in there.

 

im afraid of cutting something i need. stroker, do you have pics?

 

You really cant mess this up. Find the sensor connector, and trace back that (those) color(s) until you get to the firewall and *snip*. If you can follow a string with your fingers, then you can do this, I can't see how looking at pictures can help.

 

Oh dear God please don't do that. If you need pictures of how to remove excess wiring maybe you shouldn't be doing it. One wrong snip and you'll have a hell of a time fixing it. And cutting at the firewall is SO bad. Find where the wire ends (ECM, gauges, fusebox, etc) and remove it properly from there. Snipping and leaving it dangling is asking for problems. The very fact that you said that you have no idea where to start "hacking" scares me.

 

"The very fact that you said that you have no idea where to start "hacking" scares me" was a bit of sarcasm, i was just asking for help from someone who has been through this. I did not buy my car off the lot brand new and whoever has owned it for the past 24 years has not taken care of it. THIS SHOULD BE OBVIOUS TO ANYONE WHO HAS EVER REBUILT A CAR.

I have a rat nest of wires under my hood, old replace (different color) wires, dry rotted wires. I dont care if the suggestion would heve been "Its best off to take to a shop and let a pro sort through the mess"

 

Regardless whether you have a rats nest under the hood or not, the only way to do this is to do what I've been saying, or take it to a shop. You choose. The only other thing I can think that might help, although this is as straightforeward of a job as it gets, is to get an electrical schematic out of a chiltons or haynes manual and use that as a reference.

 

I am trying to do this also....just my problem starts with the fact that I dont know which wires go to what and dont want to HACK (lol) things I need. I need pictures of all AC wires and Smog wires. Thats the only thing I need pictures for. Other than that....Im good.

-I H8 WWD

 

Pictures wont help you people. Go get wiring diagrams to figure it out. If you need MORE assistance, an ohm meter works wonders.

 

yeah, im just going to go wire by wire one at a time and follow it from end to end. Alot of the are not plugged in anywhere anyways.... i guess ill start with them.

 

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

This might help. I am eliminating the computer all together so I kind of want to know what goes where and this seems to be the best. I have the Chiltons book and Haynes book and the diagram i got off that website is still more usefull. Easy to read and on 1 page.

 

HELLZ YEAH! Thanks a bunch.

 

I'd recommend against cutting any wires in the wiring harness. Most of what y'all consider 'excess' can be pulled back and tucked away somewhere if you don't want to leave it dangling.

 

what about a good place to find wiring harnesses? then you could start fresh and cap off unneeded wires.

 

This site says my oil only takes 4 quarts...might be a stupid question but what does it really take....5 right? Just wondering as I have yet to change my oil in my car (just bought it so thats why i dont know how many quarts it takes)

P.S. What weight GEAR OIL do I need...75w-90 right?

 

I do 5 normally just for insurance, because I have a very slow drip at the timing chain cover and I don't feel like pulling the balancer to re-fit it.

 

84camaroZ, strokermotor91, and I H8 WWD, did you guys keep the ecm or not and did you get any sort of codes by simply just not hooking egr back up?

 

My EGR is all still hooked up. I just removed ac and relocated battery and heater valve thingy. I am keeping my smog until I pass emissions and buy a new exhaust header back and smog delete pulley...but thats $1200+ down the road. $400 ceramic hookers, $100-200 custom 3" y-pipe (hooker makes a small 2.5" y-pipe) $150 magnaflow hi-flow cat 3" and Flowmaster American Thunders $400 or GMMG $800+ (with their tips). So yeah...EGR is still on my car.

 

Disconnecting the EGR could actually have a negative impact on performance. The EGR system lowers combustion temperatures during low throttle cruise and allows the timing to run with a little more advance. Removing the EGR could lead to pinging at cruise under light load. Without EGR, to stop the pinging you'll have to run either less timing (lower performance) or higher grade fuel (more money).

 

EGR....your stayin with me....not because of the lower timing or more money on gas...but because I dont want to have to fix something after taking something off. Lol. The point is to take the problem off..not start one while doing that. LMAO. Thanks for the info/heads up.

 

So 4 is correct then?

Or should I use a little more too (I have an intake gasket leak, but dont know how much it leaks as the oil around the engine is dry sort of...and theres no new signs of anything coming out anymore.

P.S. I felt around my intake manifold and the gasket or "sealer" is all sticking out of the manifold and feels rubbery...as far as I know gaskets dont stick out like that and sealer isnt that rubbery...feels like the same stuff thats in our doors. Anyway let me know about this too guys...thanks a bunch.

 

My engine was rebuilt at 100k I have 124 now (when I bought it it had 124k) and that is why I think my gasket is leaking and thats why some of my wires (obviously not needed) were un-connected...will post pictures l8er of wires I have no FING idea what they are.

 

4 with oil change only, 5 with oil filter change as well.

 

http://www.ronfrancis.com/

called them today, custom kits, top of the line like $425.

claim to be amaizing looking kits.

 

The first picture is in my engine bay right next to the engine mount on the passenger side.

The second picture is right next to my transmission.

I dont know what these are......yet anyways.

 

The single wire connector is either for the fan switch on the pass side cylinder head or the knock sensor lower in the block. Not sure on the second, two-wire connector. There is an unplugged connector (not used) that normally dangles in that spot on the driver's side. There's also a connector that plugs into the trans for the converter lockup near there but I don't remember what type of plug it has. Check that.

 

Thanks...will surely check on both when I get home today.

 

The first picture IS my Knock sensor. Now time to get a new one and new harness. These cost $50 at Summit without harness. Looks like a pertty penny to replace a knock sensor. The other I am unsure of yet.

 

Think you can get a replacement pigtail from tpi parts.

 

This is the second wire

http://tpiparts.net/inc/sdetail/2350

Same color wires and same connection. DO I NEED THIS? Thanks.