Heres an interesting story to share. Ok so i go to replace my cap and rotor on my 87 formula. i get it all hooked up and bolted down. i go to start the car and all it will do is crank. so i figure that the new part is bad. so i go and put the old stuff back on. still nothing. i go and recheck all the wires are hooked up right like 8 times and thats good. so now im just confused as hell. i brought the ignition module in and had that checked and it passed.

The issue is that the the coil does not fire. so im thinking that it wasnt a good idea to pry against the pickup coil to get the old rotor off and the pickup coil is now jacked up or that i let one of the connectors on the module touch ground and blew out the coil.

Im just curious as to if anyone else has experianced an issue like this?

i took the DVOM to the coil and that all checked out ok. then i did the check on the pick up coil and found a resistance between one of the connector terminals and ground. it was like a 1-2 Mega ohms but i guess thats just enough to f*** things up. im gonna pull the distrib tomorrow and try replaceing the pick up coil

 

Probably the more important question is how much voltage is supplied from the pick up coil to ignition module. cause right now im kinda wondering how whatever mega ohms is enough to drop down the voltage to an unreadable level by the computer.

Just wondering if anyone may have any insight on this issue

 

During high rpms, the VR sensor can produce up to 40 VAC. However, the amount of voltage is useless, cause it varies with rpm. It's the zero crossing point that the hall sensor worries about.

However, without an occiloscope, it's difficult to diagnose ignition issues. Generally it's either the coil or more likely, the module. You can take the module to have it tested, and I'd probably start there.

I'd make sure you've got 12V at the coil. That's a good start as well.

 

yeah i got 12 v at the coil and i brought the module to autozone and had them test it and that passed.