Rich92 RS

iTrader: (16)

Tried to bring my dads 92 L98 Camaro in the garage the other night, but it wouldn't start or crank. I backed it out earlier that day around 2 with no problems at all. Battery has plenty of volts, interior lights, headlights, etc. all work. I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key. Connections at the battery were good. Tried tapping the starter a couple times but still no luck. Also when putting it in park, you have to really make sure its all the way forward to make sure its securely in park Position (not sure if thats relevant or not). Also tried starting it in neutral but still nothing. Could this be a VATS issue even though the fuel pump is priming?

I did some reading about testing the resistance of the ignition lock cylinder wires leading down the steering column, but I'm not sure if I'm doing it right.

Heres what I did:

I set the ohm meter to 200k and tested the resistance of the key. It says 04.7

Now I wasn't sure which connector coming down from the steering column to probe so I tried both. Which of the two connectors am I suppose to probe?The two white wires, wrapped in orange?

When probing the two white wires, I don't get any reading at all, except for 1 which is always displayed on the ohm meter.

When measuring the other connector, I cant get a steady reading. When one probe is in contact with one lead, and the other probe strikes the other lead next to it I get a reading but the reading jumps around then goes away. And if both probes stay in contact with each lead I get nothing.

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

The shifter problem might be related. I'm saying "might", not "is".
It's worth checking into before you start tearing VATS apart.

I'd open up the center console (taking off the shifter plate is usually enough) and check for 12V on the two thick wires on the shifter switch while cranking.
- If you find 12V on one of them only, the switch/adjustment is the problem. - If you find 12V on both of them, the problem is downstream, like the starter solenoid.
- If you find no voltage on either wire (while cranking), it could be ignition or VATS problem.

Hope this helps a little.
Lou

Rich92 RS

iTrader: (16)

We just checked the codes and got a code 46 which is VATS failure. So I guess its safe to say thats whats causing it? Anyone have any more info on the code 46?

Rich92 RS

iTrader: (16)

We thought it could be the key so we got a new key made at the dealership but still no go. So we will be replacing the lock cylinder later today or tomorrow.

We've got the battery disconnected, and the SIR fuse removed for the air bag. I read that the system can hold a charge for alittle while, so we're going to let it sit for awhile. I just want to make sure that; when the airbag is removed you place the metal part onto the ground correct? So if the bag does deploy it doesn't go sky high.

I'd still like to know if I didn't do the resistance test correctly so I can do it the right way and know for sure the problem lies with the lock cylinder or its wiring.

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

Yes, a code 46 would indicate that you do have a VATS problem. A simple search here will yield a lot of threads discussing the proper fix.

Yes, placing the airbag on the ground with the metal part facing down is smart. But it won't go off after sitting for hours. It also has a shorting bracket in the connector so even if you tried to put charge on it, it wouldn't go off.

When testing resistance, it's good to set the meter to the nearest higher value. You measured 4.7kOhm, so you should set it to 20kOhm or so (common on most DMMs). That way you'll get better precision and read something like 4.7xx kOhm.

The problem is commonly in the lock cylinder or in the wires that come out of it. If you're replacing the lock cylinder, you'll need a new key made for it with the correct resistence. GM folks usually don't know the resistance, they go by a "key number". Tell them "11". Or even better, give them the old key to measure.

Hope this helps.
Lou

Rich92 RS

iTrader: (16)

Turned out to be the wiring. Started right up when we finished.
Thanks.

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

Cool, another VATS problem solved.
If only GM acknowledged their flawed design and issued a recall so that the rest of y'all can get it fixed (for free) and not worry about getting stranded out there.

Lou

brentb

I am having the same issue on my 92. I tried to start it and it won't do anything. I turned the ignition and there was nothing. It acts like a spring broke in the lock cylinder. Or is that what happens when the VATS goes out.

Rich92 RS

iTrader: (16)

It could be VATS related.

Hows your battery voltage? Id check to make sure that the battery cables are tight, and check for any trouble codes.

Theres also a way to test the lock cylinder and its wiring. Take a look at this thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ont-crank.html
Post number 20, by Trickster explains which wires to test. He also includes a picture of what the connector will look like.

Heres another link that could be of some help:
https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

F_N_JUNK

iTrader: (4)

Whoops

Good you got it figured out

brentb

It was the ingition switch. Put the new one in and it started right up. So thanks for all of your guys help.