nhansen

Any help would be great in trying to figure out what is going on with my car. The problem started when I first purchased the car. I would drive it for short periods of time and the car would have no problems. But as soon as I took on long distance 45 miles or so I cant get the car to turn over. I would get someone to jump me and the car would start right up. I changed the battery with a new one and still had the same issues. I then had the alternator tested at AZ and it passed. I reinstalled the alternator and replaced the lugs on the battery because the old ones would come loose after awhile. I then drove it to a shop to have the exhaust put on. The shop was only three miles away. Once I got there I was once again unable to crank the car. The mechanic charged the battery fully and the car did great. When I picked the car up it started on the first crank, no issues at all. I drove it to the house which is about 11 miles from from the shop. I stopped at a gas station to get a drink. When I returned to the car it once again would not crank over. I had my wife meet at the store and we jumped. The car started right up. I cannot figure what the issue is. Any suggestions would be great.

Doc_G

iTrader: (1)

If the batt is good and the alt. is it possible the starter isn't getting enough juice to crank over w/out the added voltage from the jump?

CamaroRider

I guess your question is:

How does one troubleshoot the alternator while it installed on the engine?

What is the voltage across your battery terminals -> while the engine is running <- ?

TZFBird

You say you can't get it to turn over. As in... nothing happens? You can't hear the starter motor turning, or the bendix engaging the starter gear? It doesn't have VATS if it's an 89 correct? So a low voltage for that couldn't be holding you up.

1) Engine turns over slowly or bendix engages starter gear - low voltage or current
2) Nothing happens when key is turned(dash lights don't even dim) - power loss somewhere else in the starting system between battery -> ignition switch -> small terminal on starter solenoid.

If the engine attempts to start, I would say there is a low voltage or amperage problem with the starter, otherwise, it would most likely be somewhere else. It could be a loose or corroded connection in the ignition switch or on the starter solenoid keeping the starter from engaging and starting.

nhansen

The stereo will come on and the gauges will react. I will be reading right around 8 volts on the gauge. I do have a vats installed on my car. It acts as though I have a dead battery. So why is the battery losing charge while I am driving it? I have tested the car with an ohm meter while it is idling and I am reading right around 13 volts. So will the speed cause the alt. to stop producing as much voltage as when I am idling? If I just sit in the driveway and let the car run the car will crank every time. If I take it for a spin and not get on the highway it will crank over. I believe the issue is speed but I just can't pin point where the problem may be. Thanks again for everyones help.
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I am sorry I did forget to mention that when the issue arises the starter does nothing. It doesn't spin or click. The volt gauge dips to close to zero. When I hook up a set of jumpers the car cranks on the first try and the gauge doesn't drop at all. With the car running if I turn on a turn signal the gauges twitch with every blink.

Fullsizewagon

13V is a bit too low, 13.8 to 14.4 is good. Simply rev the engine to test.
But first of all check grounds from batt to engine and from batt to chassis.

CamaroRider

Unless we start eliminating specific things it will probably be hard to offer the 'next thing to check'. So please start by checking the battery.
Do you still have a NEW battery installed?
Are the contact posts on the battery CLEAN?
Are the contacts of the battery cables CLEAN?
Are the contacts of the battery cable TIGHT?
Are the contacts of the alternator cables CLEAN?
Do you have GOOD, TIGHT contacts for the GROUNDS?
Do you have any accessories installed that were ADDED to or REMOVED from the car?

I think the battery charge should be about 14.3 volts of so while the car is running. If your battery is good, you have good cables and your alternator is good then something must be pulling excessive current while the car is turned on and it might be pulling excessive current when the ignition is OFF as well (I cannot tell from here!). If you could pull the fuses for circuits you do not need, start the car and see a change in the measured battery voltage (should be closer to 14.4 volts) then I would assume there is a problem with one of the circuits for which you pulled a fuse.

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

I would check your grounds. If you say you have to re-tighten your battery terminals then your battery connections may be stripped, and might not charge properly. Have you tried replacing the battery and terminal bolts?

nhansen

I wanted to let you all know that I went ahead and replaced the alt. and the bat. I had them them both retested and they both passed. I went ahead and changed them anyway the car has been doing great. If the problem comes up again I will update with a new post Thaks for all of your suggestions it helped. What I noticed is that when I drove the car I actually would see the volt meter dip when I drove it. With the new alternator it sits nice and steady while driving it. When it came to the battery it would not hold a charge. I finally let it sit for week with out the charger being hooked up and the leads disconnected and at the end of the week it was completely drained. Like I said I did have it tested when I took it in and it passed. So I learned my lesson on not always trusting those test.

CamaroRider

Good job on your part. Glad to hear you won the battle.