Twice I had my passenger window stick in the down position. First time it eventually came up while repeatedly trying it when driving over a slightly bumpy road. Second time - no joy. Searched here and found that tapping it might get the internal breaker to reset(?) and temporarily make it operative. Took the door skin off and after a few taps it started working again.

I'm guessing that the bumpy road and later the taps on the motor both transmitted enough concussion to the motor to 'reset' it.

Knowing the motor was on borrowed time but not thrilled with the prospect of drilling all 4 rivets to remove the entire regulator, I tried the following for expediency: I simply drilled holes in the door panel itself approximately aligned w/ the 3 rivets mounting the motor to the regulator. This exposed the 3 motor mount rivets. By eyeballing it I was pretty much dead on each. But you don't have to be super accurate. I used a somewhat oversized drill bit for these holes - 5/16" I think. If you need to angle a bit to reach the rivets - shouldn't be a problem. I then used a slightly smaller drill bit, 1/4" I think to drill out the 3 motor mount rivets. One 1 of the rivets I believe I had to have the window fully up or full down to move the geared regulator arm out of the way of the rivet.

Installing the new motor requires some dexterity to position the screws but it really wasn't too bad. And the phillips screw driver will fit right thru the same holes previously drilled out in the door skins.

I avoided having to deal with drilling out the 4 rivets securing the regulator, disconnecting it from the window, bracing it for the spring etc. and replacing the regulator rivets w/ fasteners.

The previous threads largely seem to focus on pulling the entire regulator which requires drilling - I needed something more expedient and this worked for me.

It's not the 'ultimate' approach but then these don't seem to be well designed for any service so whatever approach works for you - go with it.


YMMV