Hey I'm new here, just got my 1984 camaro a few months ago, it has very few problems but one annoying thing is that the trunk/hatch switch in between the power window switches does nothing but make a clicking noise, it doesn't unlock, open, or do anything to my hatch, ive had my brother pull on it once or twice while i held the switch and it didnt open then so i think maybe its just not disengaging some lock it has or something, like i said im knew, but I'm willing to take apart something if need be.

Also, right below the **** for the headlights/running lights/interior lgihts there is a little (led?) bulb, ive never seen it turn on, its not a problem, just drives me crazy. Any information on this would nice.

if I posted this in the wrong section please tell me where I should post it

 

HI

Welcome to thirdgen. This a an appropriate board to ask electrical questions about your car.

If you click on this link, it will take you to another thread that has a wirign diagram for the hatch release circuit. See message #9.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ck-button.html

The clicking sound you hear should be the Release Relay. This is located in the console under the radio and heater controls.

Some troubleshooting hints are:
Check CTSY fuse. Your fuse should be good because the Release Relay is apparently working.
Check that Release Solenoid case ground is clean and tight. This could be your problem.
Check that Release Relay clicks when the Release Switch is operated. Again you should be OK here.

The Release solenoid is located in teh back area of the car, basically on the inside, behind the license plate. You will have to remove the rear trim piece to assess it. There are 4? large plastic screws that you will need to turn to remove the trim piece. This trim piece covers the entire back end of the car, from hear each side to all the way down into the storage well. Look around a bit, you should be able to figure out how to remove it.

Other problems you could have is that the Release Solenoid is dead and needs to be replaced. Or you could have a borken wire, so that power does not get to the Release Solenoid. of a wire connector is loose or disconnected.

In the attached pdf file, look at Figures 5 and 6. Figure 5 shows the location of the Release Solenoid. Figure 6 shows the approximate location of connector C227. This is the black wire from the Release Realy in the console to the Release Solenoid in the rear. If you locate this connector, disconnect it and put a test lamp or voltmeter betwee the end running under the dash and ground. Have someone close the Release Switch. If you read ~12V when the swith is closed, or the light goes on, the circuit is good from the realy to the connector.

If you do not get 12V or the light does not go on then this wire back to the Release Realy or the Release Realy itself is bad. Since the relay apparently can be hear clicking, the balck wire is disconnect at the realy, is borken between the connector and the relay, or the realy contact has worn down and no longer closes the circuit when the realy is operated.

You can use the same approach to test the black wire at the Release Solenoid.

Another way to test for aborken wire (open circuit) is to disconnect both ends of the circuit and put an ohmmeter on both ends. If read 0 ohms, the wire is good. If you read a very large resistance, the wire is likely open circuited. Make sure your ohmmeter wire make good connections to the wire you are testing.

Let us know what you find out.

 

jesus christ dude, could you be any more helpful? thanks, ill check this out once its daylight out lol, i can see this was the right forum to join now!

 

The led on the console sounds like an add on from a previous owner - usually there is nothing there, or the fog light switch if the car is so equipped.

 

Thanks 82CrossFire Z28! I'll check into this when I get a chance. I was having issues with this at the Car Craft Summer Nationals. I was loading my stuff into the back of the car and I closed it like normal but something was too high and prevented the hatch from closing all the way. The motor still grabbed re hatch and pulled on it, but it never mad wit all the way down. Now I have to slam the hatch down for the metal loop thing to catch and the hatch to shut and lock. I'm afraid to use the switch thinking I might not be able to close it again. LOL

Mike

 

Mike

It sound as if you damaged the closing mechanism when you tried to close the hatch with the item that was too high and caused the hatch to not close all the way. You might want to take the rear trim piece out and take a look at the closing mechanism.

By the way, the wiring diagram in Message #2 is for hatch opening only. They did not have the closing mechanism in 1982.