ok guys, so im sitting here with my engine out of the car and im looking at the empty hole that used to be a smog pump, and i cant help but think to myself.... will an alternator fit in there? yes people i am thinking dual alternators, one to run the vehicle and its normal electronics, and the other to run the vehicle's audio and carputer, has it been done? if so by who? any pics? search revealed nothing to me. so help guyz

 

Wouldn't the carputer also need to be connected to the other electronical **** in order to know it's a car?

 

Wouldn't that rob horsepower ? Also, what purpose did you have an in mind for the dual alternator? Are you running some type of wicked sound system? I have a good 145 amp alternator in mine and it servers my needs well.

I also unsure where you are talking about with regards to the smog pump. Can you post a picture of this hole ?



Doh... didn't see the part about the carputer.. sorry . Maybe you want to look into dual batteries instead. An alternator has a greater purpose in providing juice to the battery. The battery however, will be powering your carputer setup and you might want 2 if you think your power inverter (will be needed to run the comp) will et your battery. Isolation blocks are pretty common and can be found at autozone or Oreillys. They allow you to run dual batteries, and have them both be charged by one alternator. i don't know the extent of the system you are trying to build, so please correct me if im wrong.

 

i wanna do dual alternators and dual batteries, one alternator and battery fer the car and its normal systems, and one battery and alternator for the carputer and audio, seeoing as on the right side of the car is another battery tray in all reality, im just going to relocate my charcoal canister, and the second battery there. i would like to keep the strain of the audio and carputer off of the main system, so i dont have dimming headlamps nor spikes and draws in the electrical system. and in the pic you will see under the AC delete pully, which wont be a delete much longer, the empty hole where my smog pump was. aso to answer catmans question, no, the Carputer will be powered off of the one system, then the USB add on to control windows and such will just actuate simple relays for the system i want to operate, there will be no draws on the car's electrical system this way from the amount of power it will take to run the carputer

 

Building a new pass bracket would be better or just get a low mount alt bracket since you arent using half of the serp setup

Simply moving the alt down there wont work without quite a few mods as belt alignment is off and the fan hits the bracket

Pic from a project I was attempting

 

ive seen dual alternator trucks before, and its not a big deal.
the thing is, there is no need to do it unless you are drawing more than a single good alternator can put out.
if you get a 145 amp alternator, and dual optima batteries, i seriously doubt you will have any problems.
stock alternators are in the 85 amp range IIRC so a single 145 will out power two stockers.
a cop car alternator is around 120 amps and can be found at a junkyard if you know the right RPO codes to look for in the right cars.
also, if you did run dual alternators you would want them to work together to charge the same set of batteries.

 

I'm with RED_DRAGON on this one. If you find a CS140 Alternator from the junkyard, you'll have a solid 140amp. I did the swap a few months ago. I currently have 12 speakers in my car and 2 amps running them (including a 1000watt-peak amp). It stays at a constant 14v at idle. I even had all the accessories running, the music turned up, the lights, everything to see if I could make the needle go down. Even with everything on and at idle, its still provides a solid 14v at the battery. I have an Optima redtop...