Alternator/No Charge Questions
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Des Moines, IA
Car: 90 Formula WS6, 86 Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 TBI, 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4w/vette servos
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open, 3.42 Open
Alternator/No Charge Questions
Hello all.
I'm really getting pissed at my Camaro. I've already sunk 2k into it and it's still got problems. Ok, so someone converted to a newer style alternator. Well it's not charging the battery. But I took the alt in and it's good but the bearing is going out, so I'm buying an new one and giong back to the old style($50 cheaper).
I've got two questions. Is it worth the newer style alt on a v6 car that is not going to see any performance mods or extra electronics? Second my battery isn't charging. When the car is running sometimes the idiot light is on. Thing is it's VERY faint, but it's on. I put a fully charged battery in and it seems like I got about 15 starts with 20 minutes of run time each start. The guy at the parts store said that the alt won't charge if the idiot light is burnt out. Is this BS? I'm lost, someone please help



Alex
I'm really getting pissed at my Camaro. I've already sunk 2k into it and it's still got problems. Ok, so someone converted to a newer style alternator. Well it's not charging the battery. But I took the alt in and it's good but the bearing is going out, so I'm buying an new one and giong back to the old style($50 cheaper).
I've got two questions. Is it worth the newer style alt on a v6 car that is not going to see any performance mods or extra electronics? Second my battery isn't charging. When the car is running sometimes the idiot light is on. Thing is it's VERY faint, but it's on. I put a fully charged battery in and it seems like I got about 15 starts with 20 minutes of run time each start. The guy at the parts store said that the alt won't charge if the idiot light is burnt out. Is this BS? I'm lost, someone please help



Alex
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Voltage In Your Car Is A Plus
If you saw the light on, even dimly, that means it isn’t burnt out.
We’re not sure what you mean by “new style” but after you put in the next alternator use a meter to check it.
With the car off, the voltage should be approximately 12 volts.
With the car running the voltage should be approximately 13.7 volts.
Happy Racing!
If People Drove Any Slower They’d Be Going BackwardsFog lights are not driving lights. They look dorky. Turn em off slow pokes.
How bout those dorks too scared to drive without headlights on in the daytime!

.
.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Des Moines, IA
Car: 90 Formula WS6, 86 Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 TBI, 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4w/vette servos
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open, 3.42 Open
Re: Voltage In Your Car Is A Plus
Thanks for the info. I know the light isn't burnt out, I just it was BS that the alt won't charge if the light is burnt out.
Anyway, the newer style alt that was on the car is a CS style, not sure which model. I'm putting an SI style back on, hopefully it will solve my probs. I think I know why it wasn't working. The PO used an adapter kit and left the wires too long. Needless to say the original pigtail got fried by the exhuast manifold. None of the wires are broken but the connector melted and I think everything should be ok with a new pigtail. But I got one question, none of my idiot lights come on when I put turn the ign switch to on. Nor do they come on when I start the car. Hell, I've never even seen the coolant and oil psi lights come on. Other than burnt out bulbs, what could this mean.
Sorry for the lengthy post, Thanks
Alex
Anyway, the newer style alt that was on the car is a CS style, not sure which model. I'm putting an SI style back on, hopefully it will solve my probs. I think I know why it wasn't working. The PO used an adapter kit and left the wires too long. Needless to say the original pigtail got fried by the exhuast manifold. None of the wires are broken but the connector melted and I think everything should be ok with a new pigtail. But I got one question, none of my idiot lights come on when I put turn the ign switch to on. Nor do they come on when I start the car. Hell, I've never even seen the coolant and oil psi lights come on. Other than burnt out bulbs, what could this mean.
Sorry for the lengthy post, Thanks
Alex
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Voltage In Your Car Is A Plus
Originally Posted by novafirebirdguy;
………..none of my idiot lights come on when I put turn the ign switch to on………..Other than burnt out bulbs, what could this mean………..
Check the GAGES fuse.
If it’s ok check the BULB TEST section of the ignition switch.
You can jump that section to test it.
Happy Racing!
If People Drove Any Slower They’d Be Going BackwardsFog lights are not driving lights. They look dorky. Turn em off slow pokes.
How bout those dorks too scared to drive without headlights on in the daytime!

.
.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 926
Likes: 1
From: CALI
Car: 85' Trans Am !best car ever!
Engine: 305tpi 215hp LB9 two bolt,
Transmission: th-700r4
Axle/Gears: stock (3.27)
Re: Alternator/No Charge Questions
that sounds about right. ha..but take a picture of the wiring on the alternator. i bet the wiring isnt done right. its so simple to make little mistakes. i dont blame you about the 2k. but at least your ride is more badd a$$. good luck. and post that pic. is it a one wire alt. or should have at least three wires hookd up and bad bearing is due to bad tension of the belt. TRY NAPA. they got sweet alts for 60 ac delco. theyre sweet
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Des Moines, IA
Car: 90 Formula WS6, 86 Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 TBI, 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4w/vette servos
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open, 3.42 Open
Re: Alternator/No Charge Questions
All my fuses are good and when I put the ign to bulb test the seat belt and SES light come one. No brake, oil, water, or volts. I'm gonna rip the cluster out and check the bulbs tomorrow I hope. I think it may be the cluster. It's got 180k on it and the speedo is sticky. So I'm gonna get a new cluster with gauges sometime soon.
As far as the alt wiring. I already ripped it out. The PO used an adapter kit but let the wires touch the exhaust manifold. The old alt was also designed to be used with a serp belt tensioner, so I could never get the belt tight enough. And since it was barely reading good I'm thinking it just wasn't giving a good enough charge. I put the new alt in and it seems alot better. But I won't know until I get the new connector I ordered.
In my opinion 2k for an 86 maro with crappy paint and still needs an oil pump is a crappy price. But oh well. It's one of 6 thirdgen maro's I've seen in des moines, so I guess you pay for "rarity"
Thanks, TGO ROCKS!!!
Alex
As far as the alt wiring. I already ripped it out. The PO used an adapter kit but let the wires touch the exhaust manifold. The old alt was also designed to be used with a serp belt tensioner, so I could never get the belt tight enough. And since it was barely reading good I'm thinking it just wasn't giving a good enough charge. I put the new alt in and it seems alot better. But I won't know until I get the new connector I ordered.
In my opinion 2k for an 86 maro with crappy paint and still needs an oil pump is a crappy price. But oh well. It's one of 6 thirdgen maro's I've seen in des moines, so I guess you pay for "rarity"
Thanks, TGO ROCKS!!!
Alex
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