db057

I just recently about a month ago (and have driven it only 3 times till it left me stranded in traffic). It is a 1992 Camaro RS 305 V8 TBI. Whoever had it before me put a circuit breaker (12V 40 AMP) in place of the fusible link that used to be there. I have no idea the gauge or amount of AMPS that link could take and the alternator cable itself is obsolete and the dealer was no help. What happens is when the A/C is turned on, at some point the circuit breaker is trigger and it cuts off the alternator to the battery , where it goes into battery mode. then after a while it will click again.

What I have done is put a voltage meter on the end of the circuit breaker where the alternator connects monitoring the voltage. The battery and alternator have both been replaced as well as the drive belt, although the tensioner pulley makes some rattling noise (bearing). The battery stays around 13.0 volts slight more or less, but charges pretty well when it's charging. The alternator is steady between 13.9 - 14.4 volts when charging (depending on what is on but usually pretty steady with whatever voltage is running). When I turn the A/C on, sometimes it takes a while, other times it happens pretty quickly, the voltage will jump up to 22 volts, this will trigger the circuit breaker and then cuts off the voltages for a bit. (this happened when I was driving before I knew ANY of this and then when the car died and it couldn't start because battery was drained)

I cannot figure out what is making the volts jump up and then trigger the circuit breaker. Tonight I actually drove it around for a bit without the A/C and it drove fine even with the headlights on. But the minute the A/C is on, it'll trigger it at some point. When the A/C clutch is moving, it runs (and the voltage reads around 14.0 steady) it puts out nice ice cold air and does not cycle. but the minute the voltage jumps to 22, of course it overpowers the breaker, that shuts off and then nothing is being charged until it resets. I've checked the battery cables. Negative table looks clean and good and to the engine side as well. The positive cable to the starter looks clean and the wires attached to the starter end look clean as well. starter looks old, but the visible connections look clean and car starts okay.

Another electrical problem that I thought I would bring up because I have no figured it out yet, whether it's related or not, is the car radio, you can turn the volume up all the way and you hear a very soft little static through any of the 4 speakers (you can hear a station but very quiet). the amp relay works although it gets really hot. The car has a Bose Gold stock stereo with the subs in the far back and each speaker has its own amplifier. I don't know if there is a short causing that problem as well, or if it's the stereo/speakers. but that I haven't figured out yet either. Sure I can gut out the old stereo system, but if it's something like a wire somewhere that I can't find, i'd rather fix it that way first. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks!

Schurkey

There should not be a circuit breaker OR fusible link in the alternator output wire. If the alternator is disconnected from the load, the voltage spike can kill the diodes, and it does the regulator no good.

You need to repair the wiring from alternator output to load, and then take the car to a service garage for starting/charging team testing. I have no idea why you'd have a 22-volt spike only when the AC is operating. First Guess: The spike doesn't cause the breaker to open. The breaker opens, which causes the spike.

How much current is the AC clutch drawing?

db057

Thanks for trying to help me with this. It has been frustrating. The thing is, I understand everyone is trying to have me connect the wire directly without the circuit breaker of fusible link, what is holding me back is that nothing that I know is protecting the circuit if the alternator every was or did or is putting out higher output and fry my system. There was a piece originally of a rusty orange fusible link wire that someone left on the post (to the side of the battery) and with someone adding the circuit breaker, my only guess is the wire burnt out from some circuit problem, they couldn't change out the fusible link so they added some circuit breaker on the system in place. In the repair manual, it does show or says "fusible link J RUST" for the circuit for a VIN E Camaro, which mine is vine E... there other vins show the wire either as you had said go directly to the battery w/o the link or through some cooling fan connection. I don't remember if my old Camaro ever had a fusible link or if I even linked it up right when the wire corroded off and I replaced it with a thick wire. I've just been hesitant because of that. Voltage testing doesn't always instantly spike a 21/22 volt (which then the breaker clicks and drops). but when it does it's pretty continuous and when it doesn't it runs great at around 14.0/14.2 volts. but this is what left me and my dad stranded in traffic is that (before I even knew what was going on), the circuit breaker must have been clicking on and off the charging going to the battery from the alternator and then when the car finally died slowing down to a stop light it was so drained,it wouldn't start. but it drove fine all morning up till I stared using the A/C because it was 95 degrees out.

Schurkey

I'm prepared to learn something new. You're telling me that your service manual wiring diagram shows that the ALTERNATOR OUTPUT WIRE has a fusible link in it???

This would be a first for me. I suspect that the fusible link is protecting some other circuit besides the alternator output.

WHERE does the alternator output wire connect to the vehicle wire harness? Older cars used the horn relay. Newer vehicles use the starter solenoid as a connection point. WHERE DOES YOUR SERVICE MANUAL show the alternator wire connecting to?

Far as I know, it's pointless to "protect" the alternator output, which is why the voltage regulator is on the alternator INPUT side of the circuit. Any fuse, fusible link, circuit breaker on the alternator output puts the alternator diodes in jeopardy.

db057

I understand. that is the mystery to me because I had the exact same car several years ago (part of the body rusted had to get rid of it, sadly). had the same engine 305 v8 TBI. I remember the output wire from the alternator at the terminal block (whatever it is called) where the red wire (not the really thick wire to the start) but it goes down onto that junction block, the alternator wire went there for the output and the thin red wire on the regulator. Then a couple other wires I think one is for the fan maybe, most of the other power sharing wires connect to the solenoid on the starter. I remember my alternator stopped charging my battery on the Camaro I had before and ended up stuck across town. Found out the alternator output cable was corroded at that terminal block (but don't remember a fusible link for it), ended up driving up everytime charged the battery. In the end, replaced it with a thick cable and a at least 6 gauge piece on the end with the circle metal ring you connected to the post (because I got it from my brother back then and remember him complaining because one of those is so expensive, compared to the higher gauges that are smaller)..

But that is what I remember from my old Camaro (same year, engine everything). There was a rust/orange piece of fusible link someone had left on that terminal block (which is why I have been thinking it had one because this book shows one too). and I assumed someone slapped a circuit breaker on it in place of it. The alternator wire the dealer doesn't even manufacturer anymore. but it does connect to that terminal block (and had on my old Camaro too which didn't this problem ever in the 10 years I had it)

But it doesn't use the start solenoid, it goes to that terminal block. I'll try and see if can post a picture of the page. you'll see three different wire diagrams for that wire , each with a different VIN number, mine is VIN E.

I drove the car at least 3 hours earlier (mostly driving) and not once did the alternator gauge change (which it does when the circuit breaker clicks and shifts power to the battery only). I did not use the A/C and the radio has been disconnected because that has a problem when you turn the volume up all the way you can barely hear anything out of all 4 speakers (but you can hear something very faint, and it's clear enough you know what they are saying), just no volume.. but that was also unhooked..
I'll try and post a picture of the page

db057

db057

Ignore my handwritten number. There are 3 wires all together that start at the bottom where it says alternator. The output is on the far left (says black or red, mine is red), then the sensor wire is the middle red, and then the brown obvious to the dash.

Mine is a 305 V8 TBI VIN E (which if you follow both wires up to where it splits to the different VINs, mine is on the left of both. for the output it says fusible link J (rust), and then the smaller red says fusible link G.

The sensor wire does have a fusible link that also meets up at the junction block. I wonder if the output was no protected, that if an abnormally high voltage occurred, that link would burn out and the regulator would stop outputting. I don't know, but if that was the case, I could get rid of the circuit breaker (with ease). but I don't 100% know if that would work that way.

Schurkey

Where did you get that schematic? Doesn't look like a "GM" schematic as none of the wires are labeled for gauge size.

Am I wrong?

db057

It is out of HAYNES Chevrolet Camaro 1982 through 1992 All Models Haynes Repair Manual. At the bottom of that page which doesn't really show in that picture is "Charging System - 1990 and later models"

Schurkey

Of the three variations for the alternator output, two of them do NOT have a fusible link protecting the alternator output wire. I'm beginning to wonder if the VIN E variation (yours) has a misprint.

Might be worthwhile to find a Genuine GM wiring diagram and get some confirmation. I'm having the deepest trouble trying to understand why GM would put a fusible link on that wire when they haven't, historically.

db057

I understand that! There was a piece of a fusible link left on the junction block, and I didn't see any other wires around that it would have came off of. I cannot find ANY pictures on the internet that could show that area of that type of setup and I wish I could remember what my old Camaro looked like but 7 years ago is too long. I did go to a dealership on the alternator wire (because if I could just see the alternator wire it would/should have a link on it if it was supposed to) but of course it's obsolete and can't even find one on ebay or something. They printed me out a picture, but it looked like a kindergartener drew that. I'll try and see if I can find more a GM repair manual for that year (or type)..