evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

intake box? i dont remember us talking about that, of course iv slept since then aswell so i might have forgotten about it.

and ill try that, just have to make sure i get a 90 style hatch moter right?, iv read that there are a few different styles

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, the air filter can and everything between it and the intake bellows (with the exception of the MAF)...

Anyways, the hatch motor is the same style found on cars between 86 and 90/91 model years. I believe that in either 90.5 or 91.5 model year, GM went to a different design for the pulldown unit.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

still dont remember us talking about that, and okay so all i have to do is look for a gm 86 - 90 and hind the moter, anyone know what size bolt is holding it in?

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

If its closed, all you have to do is climb inside and crawl to the back. Tear apart the plastic cover that hides the pull down motor. Then remove the black box that (piggybacks the pull down assembly that mounts with one bolt) has a long black plastic covered cable. Then insert a flat head screw driver into the slot and turn. Pop goes the weasel. the trunk is now open. That little slot is for the aftermarket lock cylinder rod.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

what black box are you talking about?, as you can tell im not very good with this kind of stuff

1988GTA500HP

They did change the pulldown assembly, but the motor and housing was still the same. Just bring your old one with you and compare it at the JY. All you have to do is put your old pulldown assembly onto the new motor.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

ok, thats a good idea, i didnt even think of taking it with me to compair them

Blind Driver

I fought a hatch motor assembly yesterday afternoon. The keys were lost. So I unbolted the top hinges, removed the hatch bolts, then removed the entire assembly. Then I could easily unlock the catch. Would have been much easier if I could have accessed the 2 trim panel screws on either side of the lock

I wish this thread came along a day sooner. I would have been looking for Caddys.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Since nobody's said yet, there are 3 13mm bolts holding the bracket to the tail panel of the car... And a 10mm bolt on the lock cable assembly, and another bolt for the ground wire... Not to mention you'll need either a philips screwdriver or 7mm nut driver to get the rear trim panel off just to get at the thing.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

yeah i know how to get the trim pannel off, just needed to know which bolts are holding the moter onto the car so i can pull it off., and blind driver this thread has been around forever, since last december i believe is when i made it

Blind Driver

I got the above post on my iPhone right after I fought the old motor
Motor was free from my old boss.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

cant beat that, hatch moters seemt to be pretty cheap at the yards

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Okay, forget what I said about the black box. If your hatch looks like this, then look at the arrow (#1). That little black hole that it's pointing at, its the aftermarket lock cylinder shaft slot. If your able to remove the panel or remove the trunk light, then insert a small flathead screw driver in there and turn and pop. your in. Also if your lucky, remove panel that hides your spare tire. If there is already a aftermarket lock, then the cable that swings to the left (in the picture), should be hanging and probably tucked just behind the panel. All you have to do is insert the flat head screw driver into the opaque plastic cylinder (#2) and turn and it'll pop open the trunk too. Now on the other picture red is the pull down motor ok. Now the the blue line reps the black cable that has the opaque cylinder on it. If there is that aftermarket lock with the shaft, then in yellow, the opaque cylinder will be hanging around this area behind the trunk panel. Sounds confusing? If so let me know and I'll call you on your phone to explain.

1988GTA500HP

I read in another post that all you have to do to manually pop the hatch from inside is pull out the cargo light. Then you can use a screwdriver to pop the hatch. Haven't tried it myself though.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

I heard this too. But I cant verify because my trunk panel doesnt have a trunk light.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

well i bought a new moter but i dont know what year, it looks like mine but my lock isnt coming out the side, it was bolted onto the latch, so i need to take my old one and switch them over.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

is there any way for me to take that cable off my old latch to put it on my new latch?, i was just going to take the latch off but its rivited on so i cant take it off.

Blind Driver

I took mine off with the plastic that covers the lock. Big right hand and some twisting force worked for me

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

im going to upload some pictures of my new moter, if you can tell me if i can do this, i took off the old lock because i forgot mine had the cable.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Blind Driver

I was referring to the plastic on the cylinder.

You can probably just grind/drill the rivits and install new rivits/bolts depending how much clearance there is.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

thats what im talking about, on the left side of the moter thats on my car now it has the black cable running from it to my lock, but this one doesnt, it had a silver lock on the front of it before i took it off at the junkyard.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Let's go back a bit. Does your car still have the lock riveted to the tail panel, and is the nylon cable end attached to it? If not, reattach the lock to the tail panel (will need to remove the tail lights and the license bracket to do this), and push the nylon cable end onto the lock, engaging the pawl in the cable with the shaft on the lock.

After the cable and lock are set, mount the pulldown unit to the tail panel with the 3 13mm bolts, loosely, and connect up all the cables. The motor should return to the full up position. If not, you will need to push down on the switch until the motor comes to the bottom and flips the reversing switch, and release the position switch so that the motor will come to the full up position. Then, take the pulldown end of the lock cable, engage the tangs on the housing with the slots in the motor and the release tab inside where this sits, and push the remaining part towards the screw hole until it lines up.

It's too dark to take pics or a vid now, but I can try tomorrow if you'd prefer. :edit: However, I have an assembly that will look a bit different from yours since I also have installed the hatch release solenoid. Just an FYI.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

yeah the black cable is still on my car running to my lock and to my hatch moter.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

i need to take this cable here and put it on my new moter.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Look at this picture. On my lock mechanism, there is a bolt. If you take off this bolt in yellow, the black case holding the cable should slide over and lift right out.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

then i can just put the cable on my new moter, ok thanks guys

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

You really dont need the cable/case thingy. All it is is just the housing for the original lock cylinder. I have mine just hanging inside the cargo cover. It also serves a good purpose if the motor burns out while the lid is closed. Happened to me once. I just removed my spare tire panel cover and turned the rectangle slot inside the round case and pop. I got my hatch open.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

well its on the moter for a reason and i dont know, im weird like that, i was everything to look like it should or be like it should

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

besides how would it unlock the hatch if its not attached to the moter?

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Easy. the rectangular slot inside the round white cylinder turn either weft or right (forgot which way). SO once it turns, it'll pull a metal wire/cable that is inside the black plastic tube/cable. WHen the wire gets pulled, it'll pull a piece of latch that'll catch and other latch that is inside of the motor assembly which will in turn, unlock the latch. SO no, you dont need it. You can always go with a aftermarket lock cylinder that suppies a lock shaft that extends into the slot on the assembly.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Ill provide pictures if your confused.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

pictures would prolly be best

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Well Im at school right now so Ill post up the pics tommorrow. Sound good?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

sounds good to me, im going to bed soon anyways, its rainy here so that always makes a slow day, normally when i get out of school i check on my post and PMs here before i go out and for on my car so i should get them some time tomorrow

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

OK. lock the latch like if you just closed the hatch. Now right in were the yellow circle is at, there is a little catch/lever. push the lever and the latch will unlock. It's purpose is for the factory lock that is incased with the white cylinder/black cable/ case that piggy backs the whole lock assembly.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

yeah i know how to lock and unlock that manually, that picture is of my new moter, so the main question im asking is if i can take that black cable that on my old moter, i have it circled in red in a picture, and put it on my new moter.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Yes. Its just part of the factory lock mechanism. You really dont need it. I took mine off and I put in a electric solenoid from a 87 IROC-Z so that I can open my trunk wirelessly with my alarms remote. Sorry if I gave you the run around.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

its fine, you along with the other members were just trying to help, i thought i messed up because i took of the silver lock solenoid off because i thought the lock on my car would fit, then i noticed that my new one didnt have that black cable so i felt like i got screwed

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Its all good bro.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

tomorrow im getting my new battery and putting in the new moter and my new hatch light and hope they work.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

another thing, i pulled this off a car that had all the power options even the power hatch so that wont effect anything will it?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

well i got the moter installed and everything hooked up except that one damn wire, i cant figure out where it goes, so can anyone look back at it and try to tell me where it goes? i have everything else hooked up and i cant get the moter to do anything so i think its that wire.

Blind Driver

I got my "new" hatch motor installed a few days ago.
There is a blue and a white wire. I forgot where the white goes, but I think the blue is positive? I think the blue goes to the red wire coming in from the sail panel.

I hope someone else chimes in for the fun

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

this wire is black, here are some pictures

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I'll look at mine after work tomorrow if the rain quits sometime here... Either that or I'm going to have to rearrange the stuff in the garage again .

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

my garage is full of parts, so i cant put my car in there sadly, so i need to replace my weatherstripping soon :/, anyways i even replaced the hatch fuse and checked al the conections on the moter and they seem to be good, i have power running to everywhere else so it has to be that single plug!