ive got a 1989 camaro rs 305 5 speed. my problem is that when it is hot outside and use my turn signal my gauges, bat, tach, fluctuate with it. when i have my headlights on my right turn signal arrow lights up on the dash and stays lit, doesnt blink, and tach, and bat gauge needles drop to the bottom. when its cold outside it acts perfectly no issues at all, has anyone seen anything like this?

 

Sounds like a grounding issue on your instrument panel. You might also want to check your gauges fuse and relay's. Not sure if that helps but good luck!

 

a solid turn signal light usually means one of the bulbs are blown on that respective side. check all turn signals and brake lights (basically turn headlights on and your hazards and walk around).
when you say tach fluctuates, does that mean it goes up and down? if so, check the ignition system: distributor cap, rotor, ignition module, plugs, wires. make sure nothing is arcing. i had the tach fluctuate due to a broken rotor.
also like mentioned above, check all grounds.

 

Yes I am having the same exact problem except when its cold my car has a slight miss at part throttle and goes away at anything more. When its warm the car runs ok seems to lack a little power but still fast, and the tach starts fluctuating usually at cruise speeds up to 4k up and down several times then if I kick it into nuetral (5speed) it acts normal again with a little jump here and there.

I recently rebuilt the engine with used accel dizzy I bought on this site w/icm, also has accel plugs, new accel coil, new egr tps timing chain and so on. Also have headers and wondering if the heat from those are making it worse. didnt start doing it untill there was about 800 miles on the rebuild.

I think it may be the jumper harness between coil and dizzy but it ohms ok and I taped it up and made no difference.

Could the plug wires being to close to the dizzy wiring cause this prob?

Could the ESC module cause this problem?

at first i thought wiring but the heat is definantly a factor and i think that would be more of a module or cluster problem.

already verified plugs and wires cap and rotor are ok now i am thinking about using heat sheath on the engine harness since heat makes it worse. nothing ever completely breaks on my car and always sends me on a goose chase.