hey guys I have a problem, I have a 85 iroc that someone was not
very kind to. the shell is intact but all the wires were cut( front to back) when the PO stripped the front end,tpi,tranny, fenders, all of it in an otherwise perfect car. have a carberated 355 that is going in. need to know if I should start from scratch or buy a painless set, need cheap and fast. thanks

 

come on guys, no one has any comment? I need some input

 

u might luck out at a local jyard and find a donor car wit the wiring intact....but thats very unlikely. if you got the cash, id say go with the painless setup. in the end it will be pretty much just that, painless.

 

with respect i disagree painless its great for a new build car but you will deal with vats and the computer so i'd suggest finding a used original harness first, last resource painless wiring... if you decide to go with painless i can give you the links for the pinouts your gonna need to wire up the emissions and vats to the computer for the engine, also if you have vats i recommend buying the painless bypass module u will need it

 

id say the same, but he said he was gonna be dropping in a carbed 355, which i assume isnt a computer controlled carb. and as for the vats, theres a great workaround in the tech board. but once again, not even a problem if theres no computer for the vats to interact with.

 

haha missed the carb swap lol my baaad

 

thanks for the input, only the important things need to work. as far as the vats, I am just
going to have to work around it. so it may be cheaper to get a 18 curcuit painless set, for the power windows, locks, and ect. other wise I will have to custom wire the intire car with a factory fuse box. any other input would be great.

 

its really easy to work around. it just requires figuring out the resistance of your key, then wiring in the appropriate sized resistor in the wire under the dash. or you can buy this neat lil box that just plugs into the harness. it does the same thing, just looks cleaner and only requires you unplug 1 plug and then plug it in. but you still need to know the resistance of your key to get the right box.

 

if you get the painless vats bypass module u dont have to worry bout anything it disables the vats completely but you dont have to pull you hair wanting to get around it.. just plug and play and it only has 3 wires. and works with any harness it dsnt have to be the painless one. here is the link
http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchField=64023

 

yep, thats the box i was talking about, but for $65, id rather spend the no more than $5 at radio shack for a resistor and about 5 min of work.

 

yea but the problem with resistors they can go bad and there's more with vats besides key resistance, i tried that on mine and i couldnt get it goin. and with the bypass module even if you Vats module goes bad, the box still sends the signal to the computer...

anyways if the guy is swaping the engine i wonder what ecm he's gonna use, because if the ecm doesnt have the vats on the prom he doesn't have to worry about it at all.

 

No ECM at all, holley 650 double pumper, mechanical fuel pump

 

than dont worry about vats. whenu rewire everything take it off and just wire the starter to the ignition because the vats has a starter relay switch

 

another question, I have a altanator from a 91 with the hot wire to the back
and a plug on top with 2 wires coming out. now the both reds go to the battery
and the brown goes to the fuse box. do I have to run it any other way for it to work the same with the rewire? is their a aftermarket part to make it work otherwise?