okay last thread i promise......for now... okay my left fan (driver) will not come at all. im assuming the right one is for a/c purposes. but if i leave a/c off my car will start running hotter......also if anybody knows what temp these cars(gta 350) normally run at? mine will usually stay around the first thick mark (one quarter) until i sit in traffic. then if i have "a/c" or "vent" on it will sit around half way. if the a/c fan is off, it will go between half and three quarters. (scary). any info greatly apprciated

 

Proper fix would be to check relay contacts for clean & 12v power. However if you want extra cool engine because of any HP mods made before you or by you, you may want to run a small jumper wire between the 2 relays so both fans kick on same time. Alternatively you could add an extra fan infront of radiator wiring it to the active relay also, this really does help cool-it-down alot before things start getting hot, warping heads or other serious damage occurs. The computer will auto compensate for engine temp variencies & fuel air mixtures, keeping it fuel efficient. Salvage yards have fans from $5-$25 standard or get high CFM if needed extra cost, also check lower wind skirt make sure it is still attached securely. Engine temp should never get to the 50% percent mark on guage. Mine runs about 140-180 degrees I like to keep-it-cool less friction longer engine life.

 

i know it really makes me cringe once its even close to halfway. and my dad has always beat the keep it cool. keep it lubed. lol. maybe ill take out that thermostat too. i have been looking into it more and i think im gonna have it flushed as well. i think it was sitting up about 4 or 5 months b4 i got her. thx for the info.

 

most newer cars wont let you use a cooler thermostat etc unless you tune the computer. and most of them use aluminum heads and or blocks. so it's not that the heat is so bad for them. if you use a good coolant with a high boiling point you don't have to worry too much about it being at or around 200-220. my motorcycle always sees these temps. hell the fan doesn't even come on until 214. and it's a all aluminum engine without steel sleves in the cylinders. they are nikasil coated aluminum bores.
they do it to make them burn cleaner.

and just because your gauge reads 220 doesn't mean the engine is actually 220.
you're dealing with very primitive electronics on these cars. it's highly likely your gauge is wrong.


as for the fan, that's a easy test. wire it straight to the battery or any 12V power source. if it runs, it's good. if not, you'll have to test for power at the plug and work from there. it's not a complicated circuit. find a wiring schematic.
it's not uncommon to find burn connectors and wires at a relay. I've seen it more than once. don't ask my why they get like that but they do. and the only fix is to replace them with a new connector and splice in all the wires. you will want to cut them back a few inches to get rid of any burnt wires inside the jacket you cannot see.

I've had to fix at least 3 cars this way. 2 of them were the heater blower relay that pretty much caught on fire.

 

heh it ended up being a bad connection i plyed with it and it stays on now......and upon further inspection someone has already wired the fans together lol.