Have had my car for almost 20 years. Every couple of years I either need to replace the the switch (slider switch) or the wiring connector. First one went bad after 5 years (stock).

I understand the switch eventually burning out, since it is cheap and wears down over time from sparking as it slides. But why would the connector start melting. One wire had enough charring to create a disconnect.

I have already replaced the wiring when I changed to R-134, and it did not help.

Today got the burning smell (almost like brake smell), then the blower fan stopped. AC stayed on, but not much good without a fan (middle wire went bad)

Anyone else have this happen, and what was your solution (other than replacing parts)?

 

Only thing that comes to mind would be maybe a slightly smaller amp fuse. It might not work in the fusebox (might blow all the time), but maybe you could rig an inline fuse on that wire that keeps shorting with a smaller amp fuse than the fusebox holds (lie a 10 instead of 15) - might save the switch/connector - would still be a PITA to change fuses, but easier/cheaper than replacing that switch all the time.

 

Check sofakingdom's reply's in the following link:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...-fan-quit.html

JamesC

 

I did find I had a ground issue this time. I did some rewiring a few years back, and a bad connection caught up with me. But I did decide to upgrade using some of the suggestions on the board. One person added a relay for the A/C line (green) to try to limit the power on the slider switch. I did this, plus added one for the blower power line (brown wire with white stripe).
Now the blower line does already utilize a relay for the high speed, but not the other speeds. I felt the extra effort might pay off.
In addition, I removed the power (brown wire) connection and replaced with a new connector (suggested in another post).
And, I put in a new switch (the old one still worked) with a new connector (old one was melted). I'll keep the old one as a spare.

Keeping my fingers crossed that it is the last time I work on this thing. I'll post again if it fails.

 

Big wave dave, I am having a similar issue, have a 1991 RS and have that nasty burn smell and a little smoke, afraid its gonna burn car down, and even when I have selector on the off position, the fan switch still will blow air, and the selector is not accurate, blows out defrost vents when on vent position etc... can you replace these, what is the remedy, please help

 

If it's blowing out defrost when on any other setting - that is a vacuum leak - the doors that open/close to change vent selection are vacuum operated - on the back of the controller there are a bunch of vacuum lines - they might be leaking, the controller might be cracked and leaking, or the vacuum line going in from the engine might be leaking.

Best place to find a replacement unit is like Hawks, Thirdgen Ranch, Modern Day Muscle, or ebay.

 

Also, when the selector is on anything else but (max) it starts to smell like **** and smoke starts to come out

 

If the blower runs when on off, then the slider switch (disc shaped switch, may be an orange color, newer ones are black) is shorted. I had this also happen once. The burnt smell is the plastic melting on the short.

If it blows to the wrong outlets, then it is a vacum issue.

 

So I have a multitude of issues, crap, that figures, can these parts still be bought, or do you have to roll the dice on some used ones? Thanks for all the help everyone!!!

 

also, where are all the vaccuum lines located? Is there a schematic / diagram out there that shows them?

 

Rock Auto
Switch is $24 part # 1S2823
I also had to buy the connector
Connector is $21 part # PT115

 

Thanks everyone, I'll let you know what happens