I just recently put a brand new Idle air sensor into my firebird yet it still has the problem of not liking to start...


when it starts up it idles like CRAP, pulsating to 2000rpm all the way back to around 400rpm... it does this for quite a while and then it either shuts off or gets a steady idle.... I tried just about everything. I am a mechanic myself and I am still dumbfounded about this... I just dont know what direction to go in now... Ive even thought about getting rid of the car ...

the only way I can drive it cold is if I hold the gas pedal down as I drive and even come to stops by pressing both the gas and the brake together (which is very dangerous btw)

someone please help. I dont know if it is wiring or what

 

 

yeah and there was just the same codes as before.

1. 12- No reference pulses to Electronic Control Module (ECM).

2. 14- High temperature indicated at engine coolant temp sensor
This one is all set.. I let the engine run too hot while I was putting in a new fan turn on switch.

3. 22- Low voltage at throttle position sensor OR Fuel cutoff relay circuit open or shorted to ground.

4. 23- Low temperature at manifold air temperature sensor OR Throttle position sensor error.
This on is quite tricky to me because the previous owner had plugged up the manifold air temp. sensor with a metal plug and left the sensor hanging. and After I went out and bought a new sensor and plugged it in the car would not idle and it would throw flames from backup out the top of the intake.... This one I really need help with.

5. 43. Low voltage at electronic spark timing circuit.

6. 44. Oxygen sensor lean

 

 

I have same issue as you on an 87 firebird, I get a code 34 cleand then replaced the Mass airflow sensor, no luck there, tryed for many hrs me and my brother to get air sensor out with no luck till the rachet actually gave out, using a os sensor socket tool as well many painfull ingerys including pulling my back, was having issues jacking car up so lost the connstion to plug the o2 sensor thats in there back in lol

 

He has a TBI, so no MAF to speak of

Clear the codes so we know whats current and whats from the PO's wrong doings

Pull the top off the breather and crank the car up. See if its flat out DUMPING fuel in. Next try unplugging the CTS near the water neck (yel/blk wires) and firing the car again

Sometimes a bad CTS will stick at a very negative value so the ECM thinks you're driving in the arctic circle and adds fuel accordingly. For LO3s, it means running awful, for LO5s common in trucks, it means not running at all. Unplugging it will throw a code for no CTS signal, but the ECM defaults to a safe value

If that's not it, do the same test for the IAT in the bottom of the breather pan