So today I set out to work on my instrument panel. one of the lights was out, and the RPMs gauge did not function.

I got it all torn down, and heres where I was:

All of the SES, Seatbelt, safetly, blinkers, etc lights worked, and the Speedometer backlight, one of the oil/gas/temp/batt lights worked, and the RPM light worked.

so I started messing with the lights; again, the speedo, 1 of the middle lights, and the RPM light worked. I removed the bad bulb from the middle light, and took the working one right next to it. I plugged the good bulb into the other socket(the one with the previous bad bulb), turned it on, and nothing. I put the good bulb back in the other socket where it was originally, and started it, and now it didn't come on. It seemed weird, I took the panel out, and checked the back, it all seemed fine, replaced the panel, and the same thing, now only the speedo, and RPM lights worked.

I continued to remove lights, I put the good bulb from the RPM side into the one that was originally out, nothing. Put it back to the RPM side, nothing. Repeat with the speedo side. now none of the lights come on aside from the warning/instruction lights. Also after this, my side marker lights did not work. and the driver's side blinker light on the panel stays lit, while the passengers does not.

Can someone help me figure out what's going on here? Any help is appreciated, I'm a noob when it comes to cars, I didn't know electrical was more complicated in cars.

Thanks

 

 

Check the printed circuit on the back of the cluster, especially the areas where they 'pinch' on to the dash harnesses.

 

Thanks you two, gonna check it today.

 

Sorry to double post, but I need to figure something out.

I fixed all my lights on my gauges, but I still have the problem with the left turn signal staying on. Plus, when I go and mess with it, I keep burning out fuses to the gauges.

on a side note:
How does the original light switch work? I know you pull it out once for instrument panel, then again for fog and headlights, but how do brights come on? When I got the car a separate switch had been installed for brights, and the wiring got all messed up.

Thanks again.

 

Pull the multi-function stalk back towards you to activate the brights. If someone wired up a early floor mounted bright switch, it's really easy to switch back. The stock switch is bolted to the top of the steering column and is actuated by a rod from the multifunction switch.

You mean the turn signal indicator in the car won't go off or the actual light on the front and back of the car? If it stays on it could mean that the wrong bulb is installed, or it's installed backwards, or it's burned out.

 

Well my drivers side head light is busted, would that be why the turn signal indicator on the instr panel stays on when activated?

Also, I tried that, either the switch is missing or bad, because pulling the stalk back does nothing.

Plus, new thing: Every time I put the key into the run position, I burn the gauge fuse.

 

I don't think the headlight would cause the indicator light to stay on...

The bright switch is adjustable... If it worked loose, sometimes they can be a bear to activate with the lever. You'll probably have to drop the column to get eyes on it, it's right next to the ignition switch on top of the column.

The fuse blowing indicates you have a short in the gauges circuit. Unfortunately the gauges circuit runs all over the car. It powers the instrument cluster, the convenience center, the defogger control, the VSS buffer, the brake switch, the multifunction lever, Daytime running lights (if so equipped), the Diagnostic Reserve Energy Module, the A/C compressor control relay, the canister purge solenoid valve, the Air select valve, the Air valve diverter, and the EGR solenoid. Also anything plugged into the IGN ports on the fuse block could be suspect too. What you'll have to do is get a wiring diagram and start working through the possibilities.

When I had that problem, I traced it to a bad torque converter clutch solenoid. It was shorted out and popped the fuse instantly. You can isolate that possibility by disconnecting the switch at the brake pedal, it's got a purple wire and a pink/blk. If it doesn't pop the fuse with that unplugged, it probably needs a $20 TCC solenoid. But that's just one possible cause out of at least 20. Just work through it slowly and don't get frustrated. If you haven't already, now would be a good time to buy a GM Service Manual.

 

Ah well I found a short on my gauge PCB, got that all fixed, though I'm still having the turn signal problem.

My friend said it was most likely a short to ground somewhere along the line, and that it would be best to just rewire the lights completely.

what do you think? It's only the brights on both sides, and the low on the left.

 

It's easier to fix an existing wiring harness most of the time, then to build a new one from scratch. The wiring seldom goes bad, just connections can corrode and wires can be pinched, burned, or otherwise fouled up.