Ignition switch?
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Western NY (lockport)
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: Stock 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: not sure...
Ignition switch?
Engine wont turn over via the key. I've checked for power at the starter solenoid and at the park/neutral safety switch under center console and found nothing. Could this mean the ignition switch itself is bad?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
No Go 4 The Camaro
It could.
To find out, probe the yellow wire going to the relay located under the left kick panel.
See if there’s power there when you try to start.
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Happy Racing!
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Does The White Flag Mean He’s Surrendering?
.
To find out, probe the yellow wire going to the relay located under the left kick panel.
See if there’s power there when you try to start.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Does The White Flag Mean He’s Surrendering?
.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: No Go 4 The Camaro
If it's a VATS car (1989 and up), will it run after you manually start it at the starter? If not, then it could be VATS. If it does, then could be starter enable relay - it's usually located in the driver kick panel under the black goo covering the hood release.
On a VATS car, power runs from ignition switch to starter enable relay on yellow wire, then leaves SER on green wire to NSS, then leaves NSS on purple wire to starter. All this needs to be tested while the key is turned to start of course.
On a non VATS car, power leaves ignition switch on yellow wire straight to NSS, then out on purple to starter.
I would test all other possibilities before I replaced the ignition switch, it is a PITA!
But if you must, it's above the steering column - you have to take the 2 bolts out that hold the underdash brace, then remove the two that hold up the steering column, and let it fall - it will just kinda hang there on the wiring while you work. Then you have to remove the hi/lo beam switch off the column, then you can unbolt the ignition switch and remove the electrical connector.
There is a cable that runs into a housing on the switch, that entire housing has to come off in order to get the cable out of it - there are two tiny phillips head screws on the rear of the housing (toward firewall), remove those, and the housing comes off. Then on the underside of the housing, there is a circular cover about the size of a nickel, pry it out, and under it is a spring and a metal pin - when the metal pin comes out, the cable will release from the housing. You can then open up the housing on the new switch, insert the cable, replace the pin and spring and cover on new housing, and put it back on the new ignition switch.
Then reinstall the new switch, reattach the connector, reattach the hi/lo beam switch and adjust, and reattach the column and brace.
All this while you are upside down in the footwell. This took me about an hour in my car, so it's not real bad time wise - but just a PITA to do - the wiring won't let you have much room, that cable is a PITA, etc. BTW that cable is what keeps you from turning the key unless the car is in park.
Hope that helps - Good Luck!
On a VATS car, power runs from ignition switch to starter enable relay on yellow wire, then leaves SER on green wire to NSS, then leaves NSS on purple wire to starter. All this needs to be tested while the key is turned to start of course.
On a non VATS car, power leaves ignition switch on yellow wire straight to NSS, then out on purple to starter.
I would test all other possibilities before I replaced the ignition switch, it is a PITA!
But if you must, it's above the steering column - you have to take the 2 bolts out that hold the underdash brace, then remove the two that hold up the steering column, and let it fall - it will just kinda hang there on the wiring while you work. Then you have to remove the hi/lo beam switch off the column, then you can unbolt the ignition switch and remove the electrical connector.
There is a cable that runs into a housing on the switch, that entire housing has to come off in order to get the cable out of it - there are two tiny phillips head screws on the rear of the housing (toward firewall), remove those, and the housing comes off. Then on the underside of the housing, there is a circular cover about the size of a nickel, pry it out, and under it is a spring and a metal pin - when the metal pin comes out, the cable will release from the housing. You can then open up the housing on the new switch, insert the cable, replace the pin and spring and cover on new housing, and put it back on the new ignition switch.
Then reinstall the new switch, reattach the connector, reattach the hi/lo beam switch and adjust, and reattach the column and brace.
All this while you are upside down in the footwell. This took me about an hour in my car, so it's not real bad time wise - but just a PITA to do - the wiring won't let you have much room, that cable is a PITA, etc. BTW that cable is what keeps you from turning the key unless the car is in park.
Hope that helps - Good Luck!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Western NY (lockport)
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: Stock 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: not sure...
Re: Ignition switch?
Its non-VATS. I've probed they yellow wire while holding the key in the start position and still no power... The relay is under the plastic kick panel? Near the hood pop lever?
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