1989 pontiac firebird everything electrical is screwed up.
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 16
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From: Fort Myers, Florida
Car: 1989 Pontiac Firebird Base T Top
Engine: 305 V8 carb
Transmission: 700r4
1989 pontiac firebird everything electrical is screwed up.
1989 firebird: no crank, no power to the fuel pump, 1 of the headlight motors is constantly spinning, trunk latch makes a buzzing noise, windshield wipers dont work at all, headlights pop up but dont come on, ac works but when you put it on high it turns off, radiator fan turns on for no reason, no power to fuel pump, all of the interior lights dont work, the power locks click but dont do anything. there is more stuff i just dont remember everything. If you know how to fix 1 or any of these please answer! thanks!!!!
Re: 1989 pontiac firebird everything electrical is screwed up.
No crank, no fuel sounds like VATS issues
Spinning headlight motor means it needs a rebuild (do both same time)
lots of info on those
Hatch pulldown gear is likely stripped if it keeps buzzing. Replacements are cheap and common. Pull it apart, the problem will be obvious
Wipers could be anything from a blown fuse, blown fusible link to unplugged connector under the dash. Check the circuit diagram and start tracing where you've got power and where it's gone
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport..._pulse_CD4.jpg
Head lights not raising could be a number of things. Since the motors spin, they likely just need a rebuild. Next check the electrical circuit starting at the designated grounds along the rad support behind the headlights, them move to the module and finally the switch itself
No high speed blower fan sounds like a bad fusible link. On high, the fan draws direct battery power, all other speeds go through something first
Radiator fan sounds rigged. It shouldnt come on unless it's at temp and commanded by either the ECM or thermal switch in the cyl head
Pump sounds like VATS as stated above, but test the circuit easily. Find the relay first (only relay with 5 wires), orn, dk grn/wht, blk/wht, tan/wht, red. Red wire should be separate and tiny with a small black connector on the end. This is the prime test lead. Add 12v from the battery and the fuel pump should come on. If the circuit is ok, the pump will prime, if the circuit is ok and the pump is dead, then the relay will click. No click is either a bad relay or the fuel/ECM fuse is blown (assuming the rest of the wiring isnt hacked). The fuel/ECM fuse is in a small individual cap near the battery
No interior lights sounds like a bad fusible link
Power locks click and slightly jiggle the slider when they're worn out. Poke it several times and see if it moves. Very common issue
Bookmark this page, should keep you busy for a while
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=19
Spinning headlight motor means it needs a rebuild (do both same time)
lots of info on thoseHatch pulldown gear is likely stripped if it keeps buzzing. Replacements are cheap and common. Pull it apart, the problem will be obvious
Wipers could be anything from a blown fuse, blown fusible link to unplugged connector under the dash. Check the circuit diagram and start tracing where you've got power and where it's gone
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport..._pulse_CD4.jpg
Head lights not raising could be a number of things. Since the motors spin, they likely just need a rebuild. Next check the electrical circuit starting at the designated grounds along the rad support behind the headlights, them move to the module and finally the switch itself
No high speed blower fan sounds like a bad fusible link. On high, the fan draws direct battery power, all other speeds go through something first
Radiator fan sounds rigged. It shouldnt come on unless it's at temp and commanded by either the ECM or thermal switch in the cyl head
Pump sounds like VATS as stated above, but test the circuit easily. Find the relay first (only relay with 5 wires), orn, dk grn/wht, blk/wht, tan/wht, red. Red wire should be separate and tiny with a small black connector on the end. This is the prime test lead. Add 12v from the battery and the fuel pump should come on. If the circuit is ok, the pump will prime, if the circuit is ok and the pump is dead, then the relay will click. No click is either a bad relay or the fuel/ECM fuse is blown (assuming the rest of the wiring isnt hacked). The fuel/ECM fuse is in a small individual cap near the battery
No interior lights sounds like a bad fusible link
Power locks click and slightly jiggle the slider when they're worn out. Poke it several times and see if it moves. Very common issue
Bookmark this page, should keep you busy for a while
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=19
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