got the old 86 iroc as many of ya know. now another problem to tackle. when you press the door lock buttons, the doors wont lock/unlock. manually it does fine. its not a huge problem but i would like to fix it befor i install my alarm system w/ keyless entry. any suggestions?

 

Not even a clunk from the solenoids?
Nothing from either switch?
Hear a relay click?
There will be a power accesories breaker on the fuse panel. Pull it, check to make sure there is power to one side, and reinstall. If the breaker was tripped pulling it will reset it.

 

yeah it clicks, if u push it 4-5 times the drive side unlocks, both sides try, just seems like not enough pressure is applied to lock and unlock it.

 

would that be a bad actuator?

 

try lithium grease on the linkages first, then go with a new actuator

 

This will fix it.

 

Common problem with our cars. Clean and lube moving parts with white grease and you should be good to go. While you're in the door, you might consider some of the 'fixes' in the following link:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...servation.html

JamesC

 

ya I got some white lithium crc brand grease. that's what I was thinking too.

 

Im a little late....but this may help anyone else with lock problems.
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=32

I agree you most likely just need a little grease. Its common on our cars.

 

Tried white lithium grease 3 times in the last 2 years, not working.

Tried changing actuators, not working.

Next step: Relays. I will keep you guys posted. That's on my to do list for this summer.

 

I know the feeling on tracking down door gremlins. I replaced my driver side actuator, removed and cleaned latch assy, and greased, and driver door still has to press button over and over to make it fully engage.

 

I mean, if it aint the relays i always thought the lock rods may be bent or something like that.. i dont know.. i played with the whole thing for hours.. (litreally, getting high off the white lithium grease fumes lol) and it seemed like the actual mechanism works and slides flawlessly.. The relay makes perfect sense to me..

As a last resort the last thing it could be (thanks to that link to austinthirdgen!) is the wires from the relay to the actuator. But my wires look like they are brand new so im like 95% sure its relay related (ill try checking the ground too at the same time)

 

ya the driver side needed some white lith. passenger side doesnt have the rod coming off the actuator

 

i dont know where to go next with mine.... just seems like the new actuator doesnt have quite enough pull to it..... it unlocks fine but you have to bump the button several times to lock..... passenger side is flawless.....

 

yeah, mine did that too, i coated all moving parts with white lithium grease spray. that seemed to do it.

 

mine i replaced the actuator, pulled the door latch assy and cleaned it up and sprayed lithium on everything.... door will try to lock itself but wont unless i barely tough the lock rod then it locks.... seems like theres still a very slight bind somewhere.... unless new actuator is too weak...idk.... might pull oem passenger side and try it on driver side.... pita to do that....

 

I just replaced the actuator, hit the lock parts with white lithium grease, removed the spring on the actuator bracket assembly, and also bent the actuator bracket tabs in ward tighter to the lock rod. It actually works now.

 

I replaced my relay and it moved "better" but not enough to lock. I got fed up and this year didn't touch it at all.. Over the winter since I have my own garage now I'm going to rip the heck out of everything and re-do the whole damn thing again.

I'm also going to remove all the rivets and replace them with screws and attach them with a reinforcement plate since the inner part of the door moves and flexes quite a bit when I use the power door locks or power windows. I'll do a write up of all that once I do that this winter hopefully.

PS. as a side note.. Someone should reproduce the internal door parts for our cars (all those little plastic clips that break or were absent from years of closing the door, or for simply upgrading older model doors with more recent third gen door clips that only came in say 1990 and up)