1990 Iroc Hatch
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Naperville IL
Car: 1990 Iroc-Z
Engine: L98 355 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
1990 Iroc Hatch
Hello guys, first post on here and all. Lets get to the issue though.
1990 Iroc-z 350 tpi
As you can see by the title my dad and i have been battling the hatch motor. One day it just wouldn't shut. The first thing that i did was rebuild the motor with hawk's rebuild kit. I rebuilt it somewhat successfully however during the process i removed the soleniod that releases the hatch from the motor itself. This is the soleniod that has a connector with a black wire on one end, and has another black wire which goes to the keyhole. When the motor was re-installed the hatch would release and pull down successfully from the outside, however from the inside i would activate the switch fom the console and i would get nothing but the sound but a relay clicking(or so it sounds). naturally we removed the solenoid and tried grounding it somewhere else(didn't work) then we just tried grounding the wire that comes from the console(it worked). So we ordered a new solenoid from hawks. It came in the mail and we installed that one. Still does not work, so then for the heck of it we put the old solenoid to the battery and it worked like it was new 0_o. We then checked the wire coming from the console again, and now it seems we are gettting no voltage at all from the console switch. Now here we stand, we will probably end up replacing the relay next or something along those lines. What we are asking for is, well some advice. Anyone else have a problem like this? any ideas on the next step? location on the relay for the motor underneath the console? The haynes manual sucks for this kind of stuff, thats why im here.
1990 Iroc-z 350 tpi
As you can see by the title my dad and i have been battling the hatch motor. One day it just wouldn't shut. The first thing that i did was rebuild the motor with hawk's rebuild kit. I rebuilt it somewhat successfully however during the process i removed the soleniod that releases the hatch from the motor itself. This is the soleniod that has a connector with a black wire on one end, and has another black wire which goes to the keyhole. When the motor was re-installed the hatch would release and pull down successfully from the outside, however from the inside i would activate the switch fom the console and i would get nothing but the sound but a relay clicking(or so it sounds). naturally we removed the solenoid and tried grounding it somewhere else(didn't work) then we just tried grounding the wire that comes from the console(it worked). So we ordered a new solenoid from hawks. It came in the mail and we installed that one. Still does not work, so then for the heck of it we put the old solenoid to the battery and it worked like it was new 0_o. We then checked the wire coming from the console again, and now it seems we are gettting no voltage at all from the console switch. Now here we stand, we will probably end up replacing the relay next or something along those lines. What we are asking for is, well some advice. Anyone else have a problem like this? any ideas on the next step? location on the relay for the motor underneath the console? The haynes manual sucks for this kind of stuff, thats why im here.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: 1990 Iroc Hatch
You've mentioned two black wires, but one is missing from your description. Here are all the connections to the solenoid that you should have. Yes there is a black wire with a black connector on the end that plugs into the end of the solenoid. That is the hot wire to the solenoid. The second black wire you've mentioned is actually the manual cable release that goes to the back side of the lock cylinder. There is a third black wire that you did not mention that must be there for the solenoid to work. It is a short black wire with a small internal serrated ring terminal that goes to the ground location on the body below the pull-down unit. The other end of the wire has a larger internal serrated ring terminal that attached to the 10mm screw that attaches the solenoid to the latch assy. This wire must be there to provide ground to the solenoid because it is electrically isolated from ground by the guides in the track. I hope this solves your problem.
Lon
Lon
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Naperville IL
Car: 1990 Iroc-Z
Engine: L98 355 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: 1990 Iroc Hatch
Sure enough, checked it out. Found out i ground that wire to the chassis on both ends 0_o.... Anyhow the switch works like a charm now. Thanks.
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