Originally Posted by J. Chris Davis

Module: ABO0116R

Large plug (Black)
A: Orange (12v constant) (added 15 amp fuse)
B: Black (Hatch/Trunk) to brown wire at hatch switch
C: Nothing
D: Tan (Left door unlock) This wire will send 12 volts signal every single time you press the unlock button on your programmed remote. I used only this wire for unlock function.
E: White (Dome light) The easiest way to tie this in, is to splice into one of the wires going to either of your door jamb switches.
F: Black (Ground)
G: Black (Removed)
H: Nothing

Small plug (Blue)
A: Nothing
B: Pink (12v switched) (added 15 amp fuse) Easiest way to wire this would likely be to grab switched ignition from the radio, as it is only for 12 volt signal to turn the dome light off and does not pull any kind of electrical load.
C: Nothing
D: Light Blue (Lock)
E: White (Unlock Passenger Door) to black unlock lead This wire sends 12 volts out on every other press of the unlock button on your remote. DO NOT TIE IT INTO THE OTHER UNLOCK WIRE FROM THIS UNIT! Doing so will result in the modules internal relay to feed 12 volts constantly to the lock actuators/relay until you unplug the unit. (I'll explain below why I advise NOT to use this wire at all)
F: Nothing
G: Light Blue (Removed)
H: Black with white stripe (Programming)

Originally Posted by 885speed

Not to bring back a 6 year old thread or anything, but I just went through adding factory keyless entry to my car, and I wanted to add some useful info for anyone who might be going after this in the future. This thread helped me a ton, but also created some confusion as well, so I'd like to point out a thing or two about how I did mine which now works flawlessly after figuring out some things.

1. There are a hand full of different TRW keyless entry modules, from what I can tell they are all wired up slightly differently, but seems like they all use the same connectors(speaking as far as the units that are compatible with the square remotes)
2. The connectors in question are the same posted above.. I got mine through ebay using the Metripack part#'s. Make note that when you buy these connectors that they have 8 wire cavities with only 6 populated, so just know ahead of time you'll need to re-pin some of these wires as well as remove the ones you won't be using.


3. After searching through multiple threads on multiple forums, the only usable info IMO is here.
4. From here on I'll be only talking about the ABO0116R module that I used. It came from a 1995 Caprice. The ABO0116R seems to be the most commonly available used one at this time.

The below quoted info worked almost perfectly for me, but take note of my edits to the quote in bold lettering. Follow the pin lettering from the quote, as it is marked on the connectors themselves.



The way I wired mine in, I believe is the easiest and least intrusive way to do it. From the digging that I've done on this, in its 100% factory form, everything in the power lock wiring goes through this unit.
But for simplicity, I gave it power/switched power/ground/hatch release/dome light ground to trigger the interior lights, that was all self explanatory.
When it came to wiring the lock/unlock function, what I chose to do was use pin D on the large connector to go directly down to the factory door lock relay, using a tie-in splice connector to the black unlock wire that goes from the unlock button on both doors to the relay.
Same thing for the lock wire, I spliced that into the blue lock button wire from pin D on the small connector.

Doing it this way, when you press unlock on your remote, both doors unlock at the same time. Just as when you press lock, both doors lock. You will lose the ability to unlock only the drivers door on the first press, and then the passenger side on the second press.
That wasn't as important to me as much as not hacking up the factory power lock harness. This method also makes it very simple if you ever want to undo this mod. All you'd have to do is simply remove your splice connectors(I've always heard them referred to as "scotch locks") and the wiring/module come right out.

I spent right around $200 for my keyless module, two remotes, and the two pigtail connectors. It took a couple days to get this all installed and sorted out with trying to make sure I was getting the right info and understood it properly.
If I knew then what I know now after actually doing this, I could probably do it in an hour or two. Now I have two OEM remotes and a perfectly working keyless entry system almost as if it came factory with it, almost.

Lastly, I wanted to mention about my note above about wiring the LH unlock and RH unlock wires together that come out of the module. It made sense in my head when I was doing it because I read how the ABO0104R unit alternates 12 volts from left to right with each press of the unlock button on the remote. That may be true for the ABO0104R, but for the ABO0116R, LH unlock wire sends out 12 volts EVERY time you press the remote unlock button, and the RH gets 12 volts EVERY OTHER time.
If you do make the same mistake I did, the module will send 12 volts out continually to the unlock trigger on the relay. The moment I cut the RH unlock wire out of the equation, it works flawlessly. Although I ruined one of my lock actuators in the process of figuring that out...

Once I replace the one burnt out lock actuator, I intend on editing this post with a short video showing how well it works.
I'm not always the best at explaining things, so hopefully this makes sense.