Somebody give me some tips, hints, or tricks! I've had a keyless entry system sitting in my bonus room since the end of December and now that I'm starting to sink serious money into the car I'd like to get it put in. The system itself is nothing special, just your standard alarm and keyless entry system with starter disable. I'm specifically wondering what wires I tap into for the power locks, everything else seems pretty self-explanatory.

On another note I greased the hell out of my door actuator locks and reground the relay bracket by sanding down the sheet metal behind where it mounts and securing it with a new sheet metal screw, and it will still take me hitting the lock button twice sometimes to get the doors to lock all the way, which is still an improvement from when I got the car when they wouldn't lock at all are there other things I can check for? I wouldn't think I need to replace the actuators just yet since they still work...

 

sounds like your door lock actuators are starting to give up the ghost. you might wanna replace them before installing the keyless entry. or youll be in the same boat of having to hit the button several times on the key fob to get them to lock/unlock.

as far as wiring goes. the system probably just taps into the 12v+ wire that runs the door locks, which you can access at the stock door lock switch.

 

Two answers for two separate questions:

1) Our door lock relay uses positive triggers for locking and unlocking. Depending on the alarm, it might provide the positive triggers but if it has only a negative trigger for door locks, you would need to wire in two extra relays to switch the trigger from negative to positive. If you are unsure, post a web link to your alarm specs and I can check it, np.

2) Your door locks (the actual lock in the door latching mechanism) are probably just gunked up after decades of service. I had the exactly same problem. You can either try to spray them VERY generously with a carb cleaner while exercising them (manually is enough) and then lube them or if that doesn't help, you can do what I did and actually remove the door locks from the door and give them a good bath and cleaning in a solution. Afterwards, your doors should lock with a single touch of the button.

Let us know how it goes.
Lou

 

Me,I would have the pros do it,it can't cost no more than $100.00,you got the parts.Especially if you don't know what your doing!!!

 

BigBadLou is correct, you will probably need to flip the polarity of your alarm to pop the door kickers. I installed exactly what you are doing last year. Lots of wires for the alarm, so if not comfortable with wiring, get it done, but there is enough info here an 12volt.com to get the job done.

 

Thanks for the info guys. The alarm I got has provisions for both positive and negative triggers. I will try pulling the actuators and cleaning them before I cough over $100 for two new Dorman actuators (!!).

What about tapping into the starter??

 

The starter uses a positive trigger with a LOT of current. I do not recall off the top of my head but it's in the 40-60 amp vicinity. You will need a decent relay to support that amp draw for the starter circuit. Unfortunately you cannot use the standard automotive relays because they are usually rated at 30A.

 

Hey my camaro locks was doing the same thing, I would have to hit the lock-unlock button twice for the doors to lock-unlock. I just cleaned my latch mechanism with carb cleaner and re oiled them now they work great and fast.. No reason to buy new actuators they are magnetic anyway how can they wear out?

 

Cleaning, lubrication and ground are everything. The cars are all 20+ years old. Rods, bell cranks and latch.

 

What?

EVERY starter kill I've installed (literally in the thousands at this point), use the standard Bosch style 30A relay. Only issues have been from from when water contact has caused corrosion. This happens sometimes with leaky windsheilds.

The starter wire that gets cut into draws less than 15 amps, if that much.

 

That's what I thought too. I thought most starters have a ground, a high current side, and a low current side. It's been so long since I've replaced a starter though that I can't remember which is which, but I'm sure this service manual I bought will shed some light on the matter.

 

Quantity cannot always replace quality, btw. A 30 amp relay will work fine for some time but it won't work reliably forever.

On our cars, the starter solenoid on the starter is not just a relay coil (like on Fords) but instead a real huge solenoid that pulls the bendix into the flywheel/flexplate. You can measure the current, if you'd like, it's definitely more than 15 amps. You will need a clamp-on attachment for your DMM. Let me know what you measure, I am curious what you get on your car.
You can also compare the thickness of the stater wires to other 15amp wires (let's say headlights). Much bigger.

To clarify, I don't want to start an argument, I just try to provide information and the OP can create his own picture.

 

I have measured, it's less than 15 amps, usually less than 10 amps.

Size of wire does not equal actual current draw.

The ignition and accessory wires are also the same size as the starter wire and they pass less than 15 amps on average.

I've had the 30A Bosch Style relays on the same car for many, many years, without failure.

Even though the solenoid is attached to the starter, it still draws a small amount of current, hence the reason for the solenoid.

Think about this for a bit, remote starters supply current to the starter wire, and the input to the starter relay is shared with other inputs, usually accessory. The fuses on these inputs are between 20 and 30 amps, which leave a LOT of head room. I've actually replaced them with much smaller fuses in testing and worked fine for many starts over and over again.

There is NO need to use a relay other than a Bosch style 30 amp relay, in fact that relay is overkill. I've used some starter kill systems that use smaller 20 amp relays without issue.

 

Of course this is correct. 20A relay can easily plunge the starter solenoid. In turn, that's the solenoid that does all the heavy lifting.

 

Where is the relay for the parking lights located and what wire should I tap into? I have a white lead from the security box that is for the flashers, +12V 5A max. I looked in my service manual and while I know it's in there somewhere, I couldn't find it.

A tip for anyone having power lock issues after cleaning and greasing them up- try taking the relay off, sanding BOTH the relay ground tab and the chassis metal behind it to bare metal and resecure with TWO sheet metal screws. I did this and now my locks work flawlessly.

 

{Where is the relay for the parking lights located and what wire should I tap into?}
In reference to what ?what are you looking for ??
their is no relay.

 

I need a wire to tap into that will flash all the parking lights when I arm the system. I figured there would be a relay somewhere that controlled the parking lights. I gambled when I spliced into a wire earlier today and all I get right now is the front driver's marker light, because I didn't know where I should tap in at.

Otherwise the security system I installed works fine. I still need to add the starter cut relay and the trunk pop relay but I'm saving that for next weekend.

 

The brown wire supplies the voltage to the Parking Lights.

 

I feel like a dummy. I knew it was in the service manual somewhere. Thank you sir

 

Tap in behind the headlight switch. Easiest place to find the brown wire.