I have been helping him all through this thread. Just reminding him there are other options, if he is at the point of thinking he might need to replace the whole wiring harness.

 

I see your point. Might I add, to took the words out of my mouth. I was gonna suggest an expensive new Painless Wiring kit. I've read a few posts since I became a member where a simple new replacement of the wiring harness solves the unexplained.

 

Guys,I thankyou all for your help.The city made me move some of my cars out and had to clean up.I've got some things I havn't tryed yet.I do have a compleat 84 bird with a carb and a 92 rs with a L03 I can put in this car at any time.I just feel the problem is either the fuse block or some of the conections behind the dash.Been around 100 outside when I get off work,so progress is slow.I would like to find and post where the trouble is at,that may help others.I will keep up with this tread and don't give up on me!

 

Up date,teste the 2 org. pins on ecm pigs.both read ood.12.3, nothing out of the pink/blk a6 or whatever it was.key on acc.nothing.checked fuse.tested it even.fuse good.Put my tester on volts and with fuse out checked with tester set on 20. only got a reading of .51 with key off.far as I know nothing was on in the car.I even have the dome light out.Should I be getting a reading on jumping the acc. port? could one of the earlier posters be right and my key switch be causing this?I've changed the ignition switch under dash on colum.tested ignition modual.and much more.

 

Take the ECM IGN fuse out and probe the terminals (in the fuse panel) with the voltmeter. One side should not have anything on it key on or off (fuse isn't in the hole so nothing's going to go there), and the other should read battery voltage with the key on. That one (power with key on) is coming from the ignition switch, the other goes to the ECM, and, I believe, possibly the VATS module as well.

 

the ignition switch may be out of adjustment or you still have issues with the fuse box. I don't have a schematic for it but the accessory power from the ignition switch should go to the items running off accessory power, radio, courtesy circuit.

 

Courtesy circuit is constant hot (radio constant power, dome/map/footwell lights).

Accessory circuit is separate from the hot in RUN circuit. RUN/BULB TEST/START wire is pink, accessory is brown. He's looking for power on the pink wires at the fuse panel before power coming out of the ECM IGN fuse.

 

Let memake sure about the proper way to test the fuse panel.Take the fuse out and test one side at a time,ground one leg on tester to body and one to one of either of the curcit leads.Then do same for the other.Not one tester leg on each lead at the same time.Turn switch/key to run or on possition.test the ecm/ign fuse slot,not the acc. first for power.

 

actually, accessory is Orange

 

OK, The acc is hot.12.3v . the 10 amp fuse hole for ecm has nothing!With key in run possition I'm getting nothing on both plug points useing the same ground point I used to check the acc. so thats a good ground point.So if theres no power to this point.once again,can my key switch be the trouble? Or dose the key get its power from this point?

 

remember,I have the vatts bypass/deleat chip in my ecm now.when I put it in i was told to jump the starter enable relay.Only the 2 large wires.The 2 small wire have nothing conecting them.When I test them I get a low reading.

 

change of info,I pulled the fuse block down and baered the wires and used a difrent ground point,got power at ecm fuse! sorry i'm getting this info so messed up.rechecked the fuse side with the different ground and it's got 12.or 11.95.batt. might be getting drained some frome all the actividy.LOL,I've rechecked my pin pink/blk a6 with key in run,cut a small spot to bear the wire and have 12v in run.nothing in acc. checked for injector pulse with tester.Got it while turning her over.nothing if I just turn the key to on.tested the fuel pump relay org is hot and the a1 pin for 12v at first turn of key to run.got my 2 second 12v like i'm suposed to.I think everyone that knows whats up would agree that vatts is deffinitly not my trouble.I thank everyone and will close with one more post that tells what I find is the trouble.thankyou all again.Bobby

 

to all who may have helped or been following this thread,I learned alot from this.I jumped power off my oil sender to gray and had a starter button in the line to controle my power feed.No gas in engine bay conections so I disconected the in line to the filter and would only get a few drops each time I apllied power.the first time was a small trickle.had wife listen and she could hear the pump run.I dont hear well but got under the tank and she applied power and I could feal the vibs of the pump.Should have done what I was told long ago,Pull the tank and get the old nasty fuel out first.Cant say you didnt tell me so!

 

lad you have made big progress, sounds like not to much longer you will have this thing alive once again

 

Either way man, checking off a checklist is one of the best ways to troubleshoot. Usually people find things that ultimately lead to failure. So regardless if you had you doughty in the beginning, you still stuck it out and didn't give up. That's what seperates a 3rd gen owner to a 3rd gen lover. Did that sound funny?