Gauge Cluster Lights, and Gauges

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07-11-2013, 09:22 PM

somewacko

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Gauge Cluster Lights, and Gauges

Hi All,

I am new to the forum, I just bought a 87 IROC. I need help diagnosing gauge cluster problems.

Some items work, and some do not. When I crank the engine a few items fluctuate ever so slightly before they are pegged. I have taken the gauge cluster out and tried to re-seat the harnesses, and checked the bulbs but my efforts have not proved successful. I have also checked the fuses and they are working.

Working: Speedometer, Odometer. Check Engine Light on startup.

Not Working: Temp Gauge, Battery Gauge, Oil Pressure Gauge, Tachometer (I saw the thread on how to fix this, and Im working on it), Cluster lights, turn signal lights, and fasten seat belt light, trip meter.

Is my gauge cluster shot, or can it be recovered?

Please advise.

Thank You.

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07-15-2013, 05:06 PM

NINÅ

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Quote:

Originally Posted by somewacko

Is my gauge cluster shot……

Probably not.

Temp Gage:

With the engine OFF, but the key in the RUN position, ground the sender wire, then look at the temp gage.

What does the gage do when that wire is grounded?

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Voltmeter:

You can test the Voltmeter by directly applying 12 volts to the meter where it ties into the circuit board in the dash.

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Oil Pressure Gauge:

The first thing you should check for is a broken/disconnected wire from the sensor to the gage.

If none found disconnect the wire from the sensor and connect a 47Ω resistor to the wire.

Disconnect the wire from the sender on the engine and connect a 47Ω resistor to the wire.

Connect the other end of the resistor to ground.

(The oil gage sender is located in the lower left side of the engine.

It should have a tan wire going to it.)

Don’t start the engine but with the key in the RUN position if the gage reads about half way the gage is good.

That would mean the problem is the sender.

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Dash Illumination:

Make sure the dash dimmer control is set at the bright position, then using a voltmeter or test light (the type for testing for voltage, not a continuity tester) probe BOTH sides of the INST LPS fuse.

If there is no power both sides check for power on the orange wire at the headlight switch.

Then check for power on the dark green wire at the headlight switch.

Is there power on both wires?

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Turn Signals:

Turn the ignition key to the RUN position.

Using a voltmeter or test light probe the purple wire going to the steering column connector.

It’s the larger of the connectors located on the right side of the steering column.

If there’s power there, turn the blinker to the left position, then probe the LIGHT blue wire at the same connector.

Is there power there?

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Fasten Seat Belt Light:
Once you make sure the bulb is good, gain access to the Audio Alarm Assembly which is located ‘Convenience Center’, which is to the right of the steering column.

With the car OFF, use a jumper wire to ground pin E of the Audio Alarm Assembly.

Now sit down and close the door.

Turn the key to the RUN position.

Is the Fasten Seat Belt Light on?

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07-16-2013, 10:03 PM

Brads RS

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Re: Gauge Cluster Lights, and Gauges

Quote:

Originally Posted by somewacko

9 times out of 10 the printed circuit "paper" on the cluster is losing connection. Try taking steel wool and cleaning the contacts. I big tell tale sign is if you turn the headlights on and the gauges deflect (bad ground).

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07-27-2013, 06:24 PM

somewacko

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Re: Gauge Cluster Lights, and Gauges

Hi All,

Thank you for the reply.

NinA's suggestions definitely worked. I have all of my gauges working.

However, Brad is right. Most of the gauges deflect when I turn on accessories like headlights or blinkers. If its a bad ground, does that mean I have to replace all the ground wires? Or just the fasteners to the car.

Also I am chasing down a problem which I suspect is also the cause of a bad ground - my right blinker works fine, albeit slow. But my left blinker stays solid. Ive checked all the bulbs and they work fine.

What should my course of action be on these two issues?

Please advise.

Thank You.

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07-30-2013, 01:10 PM

John in RI

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Re: Gauge Cluster Lights, and Gauges

Quote:

But my left blinker stays solid. Ive checked all the bulbs and they work fine.

This is an indication of a bad exterior bulb. ( Not always - but a high percentage of the time. ) I'd pull both front bulbs from teh "bad" side first and swap them with the bulbs from the working side. If that didn't change anything, I'd do the same thing to the turn signal bulbs in the back.

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07-30-2013, 03:26 PM

OdieTurbo

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Re: Gauge Cluster Lights, and Gauges

Quote:

Originally Posted by somewacko

Also I am chasing down a problem which I suspect is also the cause of a bad ground - my right blinker works fine, albeit slow. But my left blinker stays solid. Ive checked all the bulbs and they work fine.

I too am tracing an issue with the blinkers working very slow. On mine I noticed a high resistance when I checked between the negative battery terminal and the body of the car. Turns out my body ground (from neg terminal to fender) was corroded a bit. Some sandpaper on the connection fixed it right up!