Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

Electrical nightmare help!!

Old Apr 9, 2014 | 03:39 PM
  #1  
chrisvanguitar5's Avatar
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From: Vancouver B.C
Car: 89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Electrical nightmare help!!

Hey all im finally up and runnning again on my 89 L98 GTA, rear swap was a success and now im driving her again. Now that she's alive I need to delve into the issues I am having. The electrical in the car has a mind of its own I swear, the gauge fuse takes a 20 instead of a 10 like it should and that even blows occasionally, all the gauges minus the speedo work, the speedo ive seen bounce like twice, the gas gauge is intermitant and im not sure if the other gauges are accurate. The radio wiring was hacked when i got it and i wired in a new deck myself but some of the wires were already mangled so I had to run the power wire into an accessory slot on the fuse block. The cluster fuse spot is missing, my horn doesn't work, the vanity mirror lights never have worked, tried replacing bulbs, the headlight motors do nothing when direct power is applied but that is obviously a call to replace them. So my question is how the hell do I get her running sound, where the F do I start? I just want my car electrical to be running a okay so I can move on to my sound system and my suspension and then of course my engine.

Any insight would be rad

Thanks

Chris
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 07:36 PM
  #2  
Lurbie's Avatar
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From: Davison, MI
Car: 89 Camaro
Engine: Dart SHP 400-Holley Terminator EFI
Transmission: Tremec T56 Magnum F
Axle/Gears: Strange S60 3.55:1
Re: Electrical nightmare help!!

Things like this, you just take them one at a time. I'd start with throwing that 20A fuse out before you melt the whole harness and just have to buy another one. (Though, that may be easier in the long run, only time will tell.)

Most circuits (with GM anyways) are usually protected to ~25% over their continous rating. So for example, a circuit with a 10A fuse should see on average a continuous 7.5A current draw. This allows for startup spikes in the current without causing the fuse to open.

Had a coworker take one of my jobs one day, a mid-90s pickup with a fuse that would blow. He was a heavy engine guy so, not real smart on electrical. He took a 30A circuit breaker plugged it in where the 15A fuse went and let all the smoke out of the wires. Then he brought the truck to me and said, he couldn't find the short so I needed to. That sucked!! I ended up pulling the dash out of the truck and replacing the entire dash harness because of what he did. So be careful over rating a circuit. That one only led to smoke, but enough current could cause a fire.
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 08:03 PM
  #3  
jermdm's Avatar
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From: Erlanger, KY
Car: 1989 Iroc-z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Auto 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt - 2.77
Re: Electrical nightmare help!!

You have to take one problem at a time. Fixing one problem will probably fix other problems because some things are powered or grounded on the same circuit. Wiring diagrams will be your best friend fixing your issues. Sometimes in the end, it will be just easier to replace the harnesses.
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 08:47 PM
  #4  
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From: 110 S.Pointe Drive 1922
Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird GTA Spec.
Engine: Tuned Port Injected 350 V-8
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: 3-27-1
Re: Electrical nightmare help!!

I have a Gta 1988 V8 5.7liter only 67 k original miles.I live in Jacksonville,Florida.I have been to six shops here.I will start with most recent replaced mass air flow sensor with k&n air filer for more air?Replaced fuel tank old one had holes/screws drilled in to the bottom to drain and started leaking(not done by me).Fuel pump after three shops told me needed to be replaced.I did not think so since I heard it turn on and humming(decided to just to have new one when I had the tank changed).Acquired two years ago,only drove Gta a total of 600 miles first year.The last 100 was when I realized the car had some issues.So I took to Busters Auto Repair Jacksonville Beach.Bad idea did not do anything drove car till was on Empty and said was just a radiator cap(have extra now).Took it there again said not the cap said fuel pump??? I had the brakes done and did oil change at another shop they didn't know how to do anything else???Next shop one found the gas tank to be leaking (told him it was) put on 2 replacement fuel filters.Then told me it was the pump.He wanted over 1,000 to do the gas tank and 300 for the pump so I said"no".Next shop did the spark plug wires wrong.As I drove car away on did 5mph stalling???I had another shop fix the order of the spark plug wires.Just been a nightmare and now I have still had an ongoing issue with the ignition not starting randomly.Do you know any shop in North Florida that has experience in electric work?Where do I began any help or any advice? Jonathon

Last edited by MIAMIBEACHGTA; Apr 11, 2014 at 12:08 AM. Reason: misspelled word
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 04:51 PM
  #5  
NINÅ's Avatar
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Posts: 3,341
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From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Nightmare On Vancouver Street

Originally Posted by chrisvanguitar
the gauge fuse takes a 20 instead of a 10 like it should and that even blows occasionally
Take a good look at the blown fuse.

Dose it look melted inside, or does it look blasted?


Originally Posted by chrisvanguitar
the speedo ive seen bounce like twice
At the rear of the IP there are 2 connectors.

Make sure the pins are straight and clean.

If they are gain access to the buffer which looks like this:

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It’s located behind the instrument panel at the right.

Connect an audio amplifier to terminal A
yellow wire to make sure it’s getting a steady signal.

Ground to ground, the signal wire to terminal A
yellow wire of the VSS.

With the car on jackstands listed for a hum from the amplifier when the rear wheels are rotating.

If you do, then find out if you get a hum from terminal C
tan wire.

The
tan wire then goes to the speedometer unit.

If it gets to the speedometer but the speedometer does not work, have it repaired or replace the unit.


Originally Posted by chrisvanguitar
gas gauge is intermitant
Here’s how to test the fuel gage.

Remove the sender wire going to the gage.

Tape the removed sender wire so it can’t short.

Connect a 47Ω resistor to the gage where you removed the sender wire.

Connect the other end of the resistor to ground.

Turn the key to RUN.

If the gage is good it will read about ½ way.

You can race around a while to see if the gage stays steady.

So, if the gage is steady, you know the problem is the sender or the wiring going to it.


Originally Posted by chrisvanguitar
horn doesn't work
Remove the knee bolster.

The relay is to the right of the steering column.

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Connect a voltmeter to pin J of the horn relay, (you can remove the relay and probe the socket which might make it easier) what is the reading on the voltmeter?

Now press the horn button on the steering wheel, now what is the reading on the voltmeter?


Originally Posted by chrisvanguitar
vanity mirror lights never have worked
Sounds like a broken connection between the lamp sockets and the nearest power source.

Physically trace the
White wire from the lamp socket to find the break.


Happy Racing !



“Help” Me Into The Wall This Week, I’ll Just “Help” You Into The Wall Next Week
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Old Apr 21, 2014 | 02:47 PM
  #6  
chrisvanguitar5's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 52
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From: Vancouver B.C
Car: 89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7 L98
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Nightmare On Vancouver Street

thanks dudes! I'll be doing some testing, vanity mirror connection is hacked, the speedo did work before my diff got replaced, same gear ratio and everything..... The fuel gauge seems to be fine and if I ground metal between the spring and the tab behind the wheel the horn goes nuts..... I also just threw in a new turn signal lever wipers still dont work. As far as the other **** ill deal with it. Im thinking the best place to start would be to have the radiator fans and radio wired back to stock and then take it from there? the gauge fuse has been reduced to a 15 for the time being

Sucks having her as a daily drives me nuts but what can I do

Chris
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