85maronetta

Ok I have an 1985 camaro Berlinetta all my gauges work except for tach and speedometer. So I have a couple of rpo codes that go with this but I can't tell how my digital dash works. These RPO codes are:
D3X
GEAR SPEEDO DRIVEN (D3X)
E5Z
ADAPTER SPEEDO - DELETE
And
E9Z
KEY SP EEDO - DELETE
So if some one could clarify what these mean and how my gauges work I'd greatly appreciate it.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

RPO codes are irrelevant...... So are ECM codes; & there is no "computer" that runs the cluster.

It's very common to see a Berlinetta speedo cluster with working gauges & lighting,... but no digital readout. I've got more of them in that EXACT condition than I care to count. It's also almost a certainty that the circuit boards inside your cluster are fried - Time to locate a replacement unit.


P.S. The V6 and the V8 Berlinetta clusters are made specifically for a V6 or V8 car. If you install the "wrong" one,... everything will work properly EXCEPT the tachometer. ( this can be overcome by installing an aftermarket signal converter. )

StealthESW

This just means you do not have a cable driven speedo, cable, or cable adapter on your car. The Berlinetta used a gear driven electronic sending unit that sends a pulse to the speedometer. In this case the RPO codes are really not important.

I kind of remember the sending unit being discontinued for this car so if you need a replacement, good luck. I also vaguely recall there may be a difference in the pulse rate on newer units making the Berlinetta sending unit unique.

As for the tach, it gets it's readout from the distributor I think, make sure all the wires are connected to the distributor and not chewed on anywhere.

I fixed the flickering issue in my dash by very carefully taking it apart and cleaning the contacts between the boards. Now...this fixed mine, it may not fix yours. There are no reproduction dashes for these cars and to be fair I am not sure how to go about converting it. Someone I'm sure somewhere has done it.

The V6 and V8 dash is in fact different. The main difference is where the yellow and red line starts on the tach. I don't remember if the analog gauges were different, maybe the oil pressure gauge.

One thing I do like about the digital dash is that it has an integrated circuit that can be removed from one dash and installed in another so you can retain the correct mileage reading. Really a neat little piece of tech for '84. The digital gauges were only used from '84 to '86, if my memory serves correct.

Hope this helps.

StealthESW

I forgot to add.

My buttons on the control pods didn't work. I took them apart and found they could be cleaned.

The control pods on the side have metal contacts that can be cleaned with a very thin very fine file. They just really needed to be polished to remove oxidation. This will sometimes fix buttons on the pods that do not work when pressed. You have to clean under the metal bridge looking piece. I slid the file between the contact surface and pressed on the bridge lightly as I removed the file to clean the contacting surfaces. My switches all work now.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

I use a razor-knife razor blade, the pointed type,... not a square blade. some areas are easier to reach than others - but I find that using a razor to scrape away the oxidation works best for me. Be sure to scrape/file the underside of the foil contact and the top of the "pad" that it makes contact with for best results.

Heavy usage is the biggest killer of Berlinetta buttons. The foil contacts are very often warped, bent, deformed and this is most commonly found on both Blinker, the headlight OFF, the wiper MIST/OFF, and the Blower speed UP/DOWN foil contacts.

It's easy to 'feel' what foil contacts are good /bad when the circuit board is dissected and the contact is pushed with your finger. There are 10-12 contacts on each pod so try them all to see what I mean. Good contacts will have a sharp/crisp "snap" when pushed down and released. Worn contacts are sloppy and do not "snap" up or down. Often the warpage is visible to the eye, but not always.



GOOD DEAL ! ( Your a VERY lucky man ! )

If the 'wrong' cluster is used the tach readout will be way off. ALL OTHER areas of the cluster will work normally. The V8 cluster expects 4 pulses per revolution from the distributor and the V6 expects 3 PPR. Your right about the Oil pressure gauge showing a different reading ( 30/60 V8 and 40/80 V6 ) but the gauges do interchange OK.

The Berlinetta 'bar graph' tach will begin to FLASH on/off making it hard to read accurately once the (stock) engine reaches it's limits. With the V8 this limit is 4400 RPM, with the 2.8 carb it's 5200 RPM, and with the 2.8 MPFI it's 5500RPM. I used a MPFI cluster in my 84 along with a Dakota Digital Tach converter so that the actual readout (better) matches my LT1s' RPM limits. When it began flashing @ 4400 it was very annoying because I had a lot of pedal left,........now; when the tach begins to flash on/off I shift. ( MUCH better than trying to read a flashing tach ! )

StealthESW

With my car being an automatic I only see the dash flash when it hits 85 MPH.

I always wondered if there was a way to get the speedometer to go past 85 without flashing. I would like it to read speed over 85 MPH. Too bad someone didn't reverse engineer one of these clusters when they were more easily obtained. Even a Berlinetta can be a street burner with the right modifications, would be nice if the factory speedometer could keep up.

85maronetta

John do you have any suggestions on what adapter to get?

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Well -

You're gonna' need to get a working cluster first.

If it's not a V8 cluster,... THEN you would beed a tach signal converter. I used a Dakota Digital unit.

nater

question, is the guage not on at all or just wrong or does it only shut off when dash lights are on? mine would shut off if i turned on the lights but i had no dash lights then i unpluged the dash lights and the readout works fine. i belive its a brown wire.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

I'd consider this to be accurate in 98% of all cases.......

1) If the digital readout goes dark AFTER the headlight (or park lights) are turned on than it's time for a replacment Light Module. ( check fuses and rheostat 'dimmer' adjustment first ! )


2 ) If cluster digital readout is dark ALL THE TIME; it's time to replace the cluster.

85maronetta

My cluster shows as 0 it still has the read outs they just dont go up if that makes any sense. And as for v6 and v8 clusters I know the colors beside the numbers are how you tell but what the rpm where it starts going yellow on a v6.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

If your digital readout is still functional ( shows '0' MPH and '0' RPM ) then it's doubdtfull that the cluster is your problem. Check the speedo gears / VSS in the tranny and be sure the TACH wire is properly connected to the distributors' TACH terminal.




Re-read post #5 above.

leoo456

does anyone happen to have a cluster for sale? or a windshield wiper cap for sale?

Summer Walker

i was wondering if you ever fixed or found the part out needed. I'm fixing up a berlinetta 85 myself and am having issues with my speedo as well. And also the windshield wipers get stuck on and I don't really know how to turn them off. I just hit the buttons dash and it eventually stops. Any tips on that too??

Cordeao513

I have a 84 berlinetta star ship 305 v8 and can't figure out my digital dash problem. Nothing in dash works except battery/gas/engine check lights. Dash pods don't work except high/low beams and hazards.... but only on the right side. Can someone help me?

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Sure sounds like you have more than 1 problem to deal with......

This sounds like a fried cluster. The only things responding on the cluster are "tell-tale" warnings,...... meaning the main part of the cluster isn't functioning anything at all. Time to find a replacement.


Many lighting problems are caused by the Light module, not the Blinker pod. I'm not saying your Pod is OK - I'm saying that there is a high probability that your Light Module is causing you some of your Lighting Problems. Be sure to check all exterior lighting ground wires, be sure to check/swap/replace light bulbs/ headlights to ensure they are all good parts, then start to diagnose any lingering issues once those other checks are complete.

HVAC problems can be difficult to diagnose because there are 3 relays/solenoids behind the dash that control individual functions. Many Wiper Problems are caused by the Wiper Motor ( or cover ) and not the actual HVAC / Wiper pod. Then, there's the HVAC / Wiper Pod itself.... Obviously this can't be ruled out as a suspect part simply by a 1 sentence problem description. The only way to KNOW what's causing these problem is for some actual (qualified ) diagnosis to take place.

Vader

If it helps at all, this is the cleanest copy I can find of the HVAC control pod connections: